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Kamikuza

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Everything posted by Kamikuza

  1. Amazon Japan I've had the most dealings with. Most of the website that matters is in English. I've returned a number of things I've not been happy with, or like with shoes just bought two in different sizes and sent back the ones that didn't fit. Zero issues. Probably because it's automated... Amazon US... The one time I tried a claim was for a graphic novel that has a section of pages out of order... And the pages weren't numbered. The Indian chap on the help line didn't seem to believe me and wouldn't take the return. Weird.
  2. Next level sounds good. I liked the Sonics but they were unpleasant in crappy contortions... I'm a Clydesdale so I'd take 15 over 12... probably.
  3. Make one? IIRC it's just dyneema in a tube with loops at either end.
  4. I was just trying to get the board feeling less bendy, with all that tail out behind my feet... Tried the same thing on my regular TT and hated it. If I can do it, surely anyone can! All I do pretty much is foil, used to only ride TT on trips back home before the 'rona. My biggest board now is 120 and my biggest kite a 10m 😁
  5. It may well be cross-talk... If you leaning from the waist over your front foot, you're doing a lot less to shift your CoG, and are upsetting your balance. The answer is Yoga lunges -- keep your torso upright and bend your front knee. Yeah I quickly went from 13m tube to 12m Speed3, then 10m Crossbow. Had the 21 for super-light winds, but as soon as I was overpowered (10 knots maybe) I'd go straight to the 10m. It's the same now. If I can't water start on the 10m, it wouldn't be much fun anyway. Key thing is a good power stroke, then being able to turn the power right down. When you get used to loading up the kite and foil like a racer, power is less important. Honestly, the estuary is great. Getting out through the waves at Brighton is still a bit tricky Peak 4 interests me too. Hopefully get a Debi this year...
  6. Nice. Don't lean forward, more your CoG forward -- yoga side lunges. You'll never be able to "lean" or "push" the front foot enough to handle even a small area foil. That wing/setup noticeably had a tendency to nose-dive when you pushed the speed.
  7. The impression I got was that it was just replacing the Dacron... For now. Am I being too hopeful?
  8. 1.8kg 3 strut kite -- lighter than a zero strut ?
  9. Looks like a version of the North Iron Heart so it won't be and how often do you need to reset a QR?!
  10. 'kin brutal. I've seen video of the tomahawk test with the Speed5 and Viron too. The only issue I have is that the kites aren't as "loaded" as they could be -- let the bodies hit the water, then loop it into the power zone. Let's see that done a dozen times...
  11. Dunno, bloody good 'shops if it's not real. I know extreme high AR has been played with before eg. The Death Blade paraglider...
  12. Line mount doesn’t mount on your kite... which one are you actually after?
  13. You'll need a left handed screwdriver to get the grub screw out
  14. Solvent free? Looks like dyneema (UHMWPE) lines are resistant to solvents, so you should be good. When I got my first new kite, I put dry wax on the pulley lines ... no issues still. I always meant to get around to putting violin bow wax on the depower lines ... but never did Might be good on old lines but I'd still prefer to replace them.
  15. Kamikuza

    Scary

    He's the guy who had the 900ft tow-up record before Nick Jacobsen beat it, and that's SOP for snowkiting in the US from what I've seen indeed, looked like fun.
  16. I just don't get that mentality eh ... "Look a pristine stretch of nature unsullied by civilization ... let's drive our cars up and down it because the roads just aren't enough."
  17. No, the line lengths must be equal, with the bar in and the depower rope tuned to the correct length...which is 40cm. https://flysurfer.com/downloads/download-info/line-plan-speed2-19-0/ Most likely Chook, you did something -- like adjust B before C, or not load up the lines enough when tuning... Another thought Lofty -- if you're using the FDS (5th line) make sure there is ZERO load on it, at all trim settings and however much load the canopy is under. FS bridle lines under the least amount of load shrink the most. I used the FDS on the SA for a short time then went back to FLS because it's basically a PITA to tune the FDS bridle lines to correct lengths relative to the kite's bridle. And makes a spectacular mess when you release and can't relaunch. When I got the S3 21, I was initially disappointed at the lack of power relative to the S2 19, but the Triple Depower made the S3 a far more useful kite and eventually, I got the hang of flying it and accessing the power. EDIT: just checked that link -- I don't remember 3 pulleys a side on the S2, and that brings to mind that the Silver Arrow was actually a Speed 2.5, and IIRC that means the mixer and a few other things was more like a Speed3. FS went through an annoying phase of making small changes and releasing a kite in a size or two with updates, before standardizing across the range. Check your mixer and measure to be sure.
  18. I had a Silberpfeil (S2 19 Deluxe) for a couple of years before I got my Speed 3 21. Don't remember details (does it have ring lines on the tips? Or was that just the Psycho3?) but I'm sure the basics apply... Your profile is wrong -- you've either tuned out the reflex so there's no shape to the canopy itself to stop it over-flying, or the bridle has shrunk to the same result: bad profile. 1. Make sure your bar is actually tuned, including the right mount of throw on the depower rope. I'd do the tune right up to the bottom of the mixer, so include the pigtails. ... The mixer adjusts the profile of the wing. The assumption with a zero test is that the bridle lines haven't shrunken terribly, or that your SPL (the mixer pulley line) is still within spec. 2. If you haven't replaced the SPL, you should. IMO make your own, use light dyneema <2mm (can't remember the sizes) and make it 10cm longer ie. Speed3 SPL are 100cm and 120cm, so make them 110cm and 130cm. Check the line plan for the Speed2 though. Nice eye splices and a Brummell, and a Zacher knot for the knot end. [There's also a trick that works by adding a second knot the C-line -- there are threads at kiteforum about it, I think foilholio is the author. I think that's about returning throw to Z but never bothered with it... check it out and add the second knot now -- you'll need to add about 5cm to the uncut length.] 3. Mixer text to zero, fly it. Don't forget to line up A and Z, then do C first, not B, because adjusting C adjusts B by half. If it still isn't right, try: 4. Long mixer test. (this is IIRC) Get the line plan, work out the differences between A1 and B1, B1 and C1, C1 and Z1. It's something like 10cm, 20cm, 40cm. Secure the TOP of the mixer, stretch out the bridle lines and compare A1 and B1. Measure and make a note. B1 and C1 -- measure, note. C1 and Z1 -- measure, note. The differences should be the same as the differences in the line plan, within like 10%. If they're not, add a pigtail to C above the pulley -- IIRC. I forget this bit exactly, there's threads on KF again with the details. Fly it. If that doesn't help, then you're going to have to meddle with the mixer. ... In all reality, the S2 was a simple-minded beast that always had a tendency to overfly. And a foil isn't a tube, if you let it shoot to the zenith, it's going to overfly. Maybe you're just over-reacting to it's natural character ... and being too heavy handed on the bar.
  19. This is on a Facebook group, "Kites for SALE .... USA + Canada" ... might be able to work something out with someone we know in the area.
  20. Is a whistle the same as a hum though? We're using them interchangeably but I think they're unique. The Alpine is a definite hum by the character of the sound, and the DA would just start humming at a certain speed, like a switch was thrown. My whistle grows in volume with board speed, and probably speed into the wind, I'd have to concentrate. There are mounting holes in the plate, I wonder if they're the source. It's really almost non-existent, very quiet -- unlike the DA or the Alpine. Now I think of it too, the Alpine is a Tuttle mount on a Spots board...
  21. I was thinking more differences in water pressure at different depths, and how they might travel. My foil's TE are noticably squared, the front thicker than the rear. Tape would be good for free ride but I doubt the racers would countenance it I think the relative stiffness of the fuselage matters too -- wouldn't stiffer transmit more "sound"? "Rumbles" are the turbulence in the water I think, and the trim difference between wing and stab feel similar but more rearward to me... So where is the whistling actually coming from?
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