Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'Landboard'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • Activities
    • General Kiting
    • Kite Buggy
    • Landboarding
    • Kite Surfing
    • Snowkiting
    • Kite Skates
    • Sports, Stunts & Single Liners
    • Land Yachts & Blokarts
  • General
    • The Lounge
    • Buy & Sell
    • Meets & Events
    • Kite Videos


  • XK News
  • Fabricated Insanity
  • Electrical Impulses
  • Stuff I write...
  • lasrocas
  • Blofarting around...
  • Naish/Fone Demo
  • Rob's Ramble
  • Briskites goings on
  • F'Dup & No Limits
  • Old fart flys high and low
  • Mad Way Mongolia
  • Geelong & District Kite Club
  • BobM
  • Kiting in Wagga
  • sintiendo el poder del viento
  • Goz's Blog
  • ssayre
  • BigE
  • Red Bull Ragnarok
  • Baked, not Fried
  • Derrick
  • MikeDobbs
  • Bodyart
  • Winds for all occasions
  • Kingston 2016
  • proyect a kitesurfing
  • Land yacht ??
  • Poker Face @ Kingston 2018 Blog
  • Portugal RONALDO maillots de foot un combat
  • meemujose
  • meemujose
  • Ficher Chem Co. Ltd: Crystal meth, Buy Research Chemicals Online
  • I choose what Tv stand
  • mody
  • Nano Đông trùng hạ thảo
  • Salvaging a Good Jojo Kite


  • General Kiting
  • Kite Buggy
  • Kitesurf
  • Landboard


  • Kite Buggy
    • Speed
    • Speed3
  • Landboard
    • Speed


  • Community
  • Club Links
  • Blog Links
  • Manufacturer Links
  • Facebook Groups
  • Weather


  • Kites
  • Buggy
  • Landboard
  • Kiteboard
  • Other
  • How To Guide


  • Manuals
  • Bridle Plans
  • Tweaks
  • Other

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start





Website URL










  1. So you’re thinking about buying your first landboard and wondering where to start? Let’s clarify some of those initial questions you have and get you off on the right foot, or the left foot. We won’t go into anything to do with safety gear, getting rolling or handling the kite just yet, you will find those guides here on Extreme Kites when you are ready to access them. The main things to consider when buying your first landboard are your budget, your height and your weight. Obviously you don’t want to blow too much money on something you he never tried before, so let’s talk about why your height and weight are important factors that help determine the best board for you. Height plays an important factor with your stance on the board. If you are quite tall, then I would opt for a longer board. This will enable you to spread your weight out over the length of the board and should be more comfortable as your legs won’t be as close together. Vice versa if you are short, then a shorter board will be more suitable to you. Your height and weight will be disbursed more evenly on a shorter board and the footing will be more comfortable. Just think you don’t want your legs to be too squashed together or too far apart. For a medium size and build, go for an average sized board which are most common. "Landboard (land-board) noun - A board that is equipped with wheels and usually bindings for the feet and is often ridden on land, as in kite landboarding." Trucks When starting out landboarding there are two choices, Skate trucks or Channel trucks. Skate Trucks are, as they sound, are very similar to those of a skateboard or longboard. They are oversized in comparison to regular skate trucks as they need to accomodate a larger wheel and deal with more force. They work the same way, however, by using a bushing (of various durometer) to give movement to the axle from the hanger. The harder the bushing, durometer wise, the harder to turn the board. The bushing can be tightened down further or loosened off between the axle and the hanger. Again, this means tighter or softer turns. You also have the option of sourcing harder durometer bushings, usually from your local skate shop or online. You would do this if you find that the board is still turning too easily under your weight after tightening down as much as possible. Skate trucks are recommend for lighter riders giving a lighter riding style, more maneuverability and easier turns. Think of skate trucks as the more nimble option. Channel Trucks, also referred to as Matrix trucks, still consist of an axle and a hanger. They utilise a kingpin, which is the centre point that the axle pivots on. Channel trucks house springs on either side with elastometers or dampeners inside them. This is what provides the hardness or softness of turning. The elastometers can be swapped for different durometers and the position of the springs can be offset, which equates to a very customisable turning resistance. You can really dial in your perfect ride on channel trucks, however the payoff is that they are a lot heavier than skate trucks. Channel trucks are recommended for heavier riders, as they give more stability at speed and provide harder turns. Heavier riders will naturally use their weight to turn the trucks, which is why a more stable platform is required. Skate trucks would just be too wobbly here for a comfortable ride. Bindings Bindings are important on a landboard, as they keep your feet in position and somewhat captive into the board. You need them to be able to slide your board around and to remain in contact with the board when you are off the ground, either for a small hop or a jump. You aren’t locked into the board so much that you cannot free your feet, landboard bindings are designed to step in and out of. You aren’t clipped in like you are on say a snowboard for example. They are adjustable to your stance and foot size. Bindings should be well padded and comfortable, as your shoes will be in them for the whole session. The most common form of bindings are called ratchet bindings and they adjust via a ratchet system. The next form of bindings utilise velcro as the adjustment mechanism. It’s not important which style of bindings you have to start off with, just as long as they are there and freely adjustable. You don’t want your bindings to be too tight where you are unable to slip in and out of. Vice versa you don’t want them to be too loose and not providing the snug fit you need. We can expand of foot placement and fitment of your bindings in further guides. Landboards can also be referred to as Mountainboards and both can be used for land kiting. The difference with products marketed as a Landboard or Kite Landboard, is that they are designed to be a lot lighter than a Mountainboard. If you happen to buy a Mountainboard with a brake attached, you will want to remove this for landboarding. For starters the handle and line will get in the way and secondly the brake mechanism will likely rust out if your riding on the beach or a coastal wind location. For your first landboard, wheels and tyres aren’t much of a concern. You want to get the feel for landboarding before you start shelling out extra money on customising your board and setup. So the standard hubs and 8” tyres will suffice for now. Make sure you have a pump handy, to ensure your tyres are at pressure. If your buying second hand, make sure the tyre tread is sufficient and that the tubes still hold air. As just mentioned, there is no problem with buying a second hand landboard to get the feel for it or learn on. The best place for this is to keep your eye on the Buy & Sell section here on Extreme Kites, you can also try your luck on Gumtree or Ebay. For a brand new landboard here are a few examples that will be able to get you rolling in no time: If you are ready for an upgrade the re-sell market here in Australia is pretty good. Someone is always interested in a beginners landboard and will sell quickly on here on the Extreme Kites Buy & Sell section. People can also use them as mountainboards, they are quite versatile and people will snap them up quickly if you re-sell at a reasonable price. Remember to stay tuned for the rest of the guides available in this section as you progress. And always feel free to ask for guidance or any questions in the comments section. No question is a silly question and at least one of the kind folk on Extreme Kites will chime in and help you on your way. Remember you can also keep an eye on the Meets & Events page for upcoming gatherings and head down to ask us any questions you might have and see for yourself the amount of fun we have. The best way to learn is to see and the best way to ask questions, apart from on Extreme Kites is in person.
  2. 0 downloads

    Elastomer Guide for Red (Hard), Black (Medium) and Yellow (Soft) inserts to suite Kitedeck Revo trucks.
  3. 0 downloads

    Original Flexifoil Tracker Landboard/Mountainboard manual.
  4. 0 downloads

    Original Flexifoil Hunter Landboard/Mountainboard manual.
  5. So here I was landboarding in thick grass come to the end of my tack, thinking the ride was a tad wobbly. Bugger, one of my front springs of my MBS Comp95 matrix trucks popped out. No spring to be found, only lots of sheep, hey it's New Zealand. So I put an order in for some new springs direct from MBS USA. They arrived and check out the difference, the oldies have permanent offset of 10mm, no wonder they popped out. Suppose that is normal wear, old ones were from when I originally bought the board. The egg shocks will also be replaced as they have shrunk as well. Ride should be a lot more solid when the new ones are installed.
  6. A quick edit from Lolo BSD - the man has skills!
  7. Unused but they have picked up some surface rust and a few scuffs/scratches from the 4 years they've been laying around, first in Pari's garage and then mine. They still look good and function perfectly. $130 + postage
  8. Kite surfing off the snow melt on a fresh water lake up in the Moutains of New Zealand at Lake Coleridge one day, kitesurfing/land boarding the smooth onshore winds at New Brighton Beach the next.
  9. Hi i was looking for a new board and came across these ex display boards and wondered if anyone had any experience with any of these models and their opinion would be great also is the price good? site link; http://www.kiteko.co/page-14/page-13/
  10. To keep safe in the beginning it doesn’t have to be an expensive exercise, think about what you may already have available to you from other sports and hobbies. You can find the gear listed below in most Kite Shops or Sports Retailers, alternatively you can also take a look at our 'Buy & Sell' section for potential options. Deciding and purchasing the right safety gear is an important process in equipping yourself for Landboarding, it's as equally important as 'Choosing The Right Landboard' and will protect you whilst you're learning and as you advance your skills. Don't skimp on safety, it's always cheaper than a medical bill after the incident! Helmet This can be as simple as a bike helmet to begin with. If you look around hard enough there will be one of these not being utilised by you or someone around you. Ask around you will find one pretty easily. As you progress you can look into Protec helmets or even snowboarding helmets. You will find these come up on sale from time to time. I personally utilise a snowboard helmet I got on sale at Anaconda for a very reasonable price. It’s comfy and is rated to protect my head. It has ear covers which is handy for those winter months and is vented to let some air in if desired. Ensure that your helmet is a good fit and not too sloppy. Have it done up tight enough that it doesn’t move around on your head, but not too tight that it’s uncomfortable. Knee Pads These are a must for landboarding. At some stage or another when your learning to landboard you will fall to your knees and most likely at a degree of speed. Make sure your knee pads are a good fit and will not slide down your leg when your planing across the grass on your knees. Elbow Pads An optional extra layer of protection for your elbows. These do not need to be fancy just something to protect you if you have a tumble. You’ll find these are the first piece of safety gear to go once you become somewhat proficient. Footwear Bear in mind you want some sturdy, comfortable shoes. There are many preferences for Landboarders here on Extreme Kites. Some of us like to use bulky skate style shoes, some hiking boots and some Crocs. Although I wouldn’t recommend Crocs for beginners, I would recommend something somewhat waterproof and capable of taking some abuse. You can ease into Crocs at you leisure when you become proficient and for those hot summer months. Gloves Again are optional. They can help you with your grip on the handles or bar and keep your hands warm at the same time. Motocross gloves make and excellent choice for kiting or visit Bunnings, there are plenty on offer there. Remember the thinner the better, you don’t want bulky fingers around your kite handles or bar. Wrist Guards They can be worn if you have concerns about your wrists, but usually get in the way of steering the kite responsively. Sunnies These are a must for keeping that glare down. Find your old pair as your likely to have them fall off your face in a spill and they will get scratched. Suncream Don’t forget to slip slop slap. When your concentrating for so long on your board skills and kite handling - you often forget to apply suncream. Do this at the start of the session, so you don’t forget. Remember to take plenty of water and stay hydrated too. Clothing For your initial runs, wear long clothing that will cover up your bare skin. Old jeans are good to start in and at least a long sleeve t-shirt or jumper. Ensure you keep comfortable and have the ability to move freely, just think along the lines of minimising any cuts or abrasions to bare skin if possible. Remember to think about what else might be available to you. I started out with an old motorbike jacket that already had shoulder pads and elbow pads fitted, this saved me having to buy elbow pads and kept me warm. Another bonus was that it had a back pad as well. If you’re worried about falling on your butt, you can pickup a pair of padded shorts from the motorbike shop fairly cheap as well. And if you are concerned about your back, you can pickup some motorbike armour or a spine protector. Watch out for the clearance sales at motorbike shops or outlets. Last of all, when your starting out, remember to try and have a friend or spotter close by that can lend a hand when needed. If you have any questions or unsure about anything ask in our 'Landboarding Community Forum', there are lots of people who will be more than happy to help you make a decision on what's suitable for you.
  11. I haven't used my 8m Ozone Manta 2 for a long long time so it has to go. (plus I need some $ get a new water kite) This kite is basically brand new, barely even bedded in. It was purchased brand new and has been used only twice: - In 2012 for a couple of days in the Cock's harbour area. (trip info with photos here) - In 2013 for half a day on Carruthers East ridge in Spring. Why so little use? Well, I am not a freestyle/lawn-mowing sort of snowkiter, I tend to go out exploring and for this I prefer a two-kite system of a 5m Frenzy and either 11m Frenzy or 15m Summit. Includes, backpack, leash, bar/lines, spares etc Gum-nuts sold a 10m Manta 2 recently for $450 and by the looks of it, that kite had had a little more use than mine. I am pricing this one to sell: Price: $400 Located in Ryde, Sydney
  12. This could be a game changer... a kite, a better designed "click on" board with fins and a handle... a kite... get my drift?
  13. I thought i might add this as i have done this little mod to my deck , and thought some others out there might be interested in the results . Having ridden and been very happy with a Scrub Silver Reef for over a year now , not to mention not wanting to part with another 200 quid for a lighter board , i decided to see what can be done with the silver reef as it stands . What can be taken off to reduce weight ? Pretty much everything except the deck , and you would be hard pressed to find lighter trucks (possibly this years new trucks ) I started with the tires , those 9 inch strikers may look cool but they weigh a ton and to me felt a little overkill for a kiteboard mostly used on grass or sand . the bigger tires also had an annoying habbit of when overpowered as opposed to powersliding, they would dig in and lift you onto the two toeside wheels , now this looks cool but isnt very much fun when overpowered and doing 20mph as the face plant is inevitable . so off with the 9 inchers and on with some brand new 8 inch Primo Alphas . (ps ATB hubs are in 2 parts DO NOT try and remove the tires they way you would with a bike , either you or your hub will give in before the tire does trust me !!) The new tires significantly lowered the deck and made it much less prone to "tipping up" and much easier to slide . the ride is bumpier and slower to start , but overall more stable and more lateral grip . the main issue being the tendancy to slide when overpowered as opposed to flipping you over the front of the board . (at least you land on your A$$ if you get it wrong as opposed to your face!) Not being content with the new tires , i ordered myself some adapter bearings and the lightweight Primo Hubs , and replaced the old scrub ones . The result was a much much lighter board , i havent weighed it , but i would say the hub and tire upgrade got rig of the best part of a KG of weight . The primo hubs allow you to inflate the tires to higher pressures too and fit the smaller tires much better , this translates to more speed due to the Harder tires . and finally just as a matter of preferance i took the old scrub freeflex bindings off and replaced them with Ground Industries roots bindings (the kidney bean shaped ones like the new flexi footstraps) this was initially just a matter of looks , but the bindings have proved their worth , they are infinately more adjustable than freeflex bindings , hold your feet tighter and provide more of a feeling of contact with the board. the extra support is noticeable instantly , they just seem to grip hard all the time . No more turning your toes up hwen edging hard , no more duck feet when jumping , if anything you will complain about not being able to get out of em . All in all for under £100 the board has been transformed , it doesnt compete with the trampas out there but definately ads more longevity and enjoyment to an already great board. By : Lofty
  14. After much talking about doing it, endless sketches, and gonna this and gonna that, we have made some landboard and skate board wall hangers Just bought some 45x45 mm pine wood and some 16mm diameter dowels. After drilling lots of holes and a slick of paint, the hangers were ready.
  15. Sandy Point Victoria. Anyone want to come to Sandy Point this weekend coming. Low tide is 1.05 pm @0.5 m and this far out wind says Southwest @> 20knts. @Clive @IMK @jhn.holgate @OBEwan @Mik333 @bakersdozen @The Duke @Hatman @Sheldon71 @.Joel @nigel @roblukin and anyone else who is keen. come on down. keep an eye on the winds. i am aiming for 10am at the shops. Doug
  16. What footwear do you guys find the best and most comfortable for landboarding in? I know @SoutherlyBuster wears a type of hiking boot and @plummet wears crocs. I've tried both, but still not convinced. What about the rest of you?
  17. Does anyone know where this is? https://vimeo.com/801147 I've had a search on this forum and the link to locations seems to be broken, does anyone know where I can find info on where to landboard around sydney? I live near botany bay (bexley) so spots down south would be awesome. So far i've found, correct me if i am wrong please Salt pan Reserve - Riverwood NW-SW, 7 Mile beach Gerroa, S-NE Stockton Beach - what part? I seem to remember the sand being soft here for a land board S-NE Yarra Bay, Is the spot the park that I see on google maps behind the bay, I assume SW-S Wanda Kurnell Thanks Daz
  18. Baught the board on ebay for a good price,£99.00 reduced from £199.00,they had a deal on at the time,brand new.So i was quite pleased. For a year i was using an exit bomber,youth size board ,it served me well but i had outgrown it .I needed a little larger board where my feet didnt catch the wheels. I was on a low budget so mbs ,kite deck,etc was out . having learned on a smaller board i knew what i was looking for......something bigger! Channel tucks suited me,nice for cruising. Long low deck was nice for low centre of gravity. Graphics were nice ,on a large laminate type of sticker the full size of the deck.It had small rubber grip pieces under the bindings ,my previous deck had full length grip tape.At the time i thought that rubber was good ,but after a while the rubber pieces started to peel off from the edges,i never had that kind of problem with grip tape.(A bit of evostick contact adhesive sorted it out) Bindings were the usual velcro fastend to rubber posts The trucks were alloy.....nice,but the king pin washers gave me problems.After about two weeks i heard this knocking noise comming from the trucks,when i got it home and had a close look ,i found that the nylon sleeve on one end had snapped and so there was play where the king pin goes through the trucks.When i phoned the supplier ,they were reasonable and offered me a new truck at half price.I didnt bother and did the job myself with some nylon tubing myself,held tight in place with a bit of hosepipe.Had no problem since!(touch wood).Ive had the board for a year now. The other minor alteration was to fit a galvanisedmetal plate on the top of the deck over the trucks,to act like a big washer for the ajustment bolts.I set the bolts for a tight truck. Ive been very happy with the board once these little problems were sorted. Its an average speed board,thats what i paid for. By : moroni-10
  19. So you’ve seen the video’s of the pro’s on youtube jumping, looping and throwing the board around like its as heavy as a fag packet and you want to buy the gear and fly like the pro’s. Well hold on! You need to walk before you can run and you need to run before you can jump. Landboarding is a great sport to do and isn’t dictated by age as to who can do it although a sense of balance helps. GETTING GEARED UP: The first thing you need is a kite! If you can only afford to buy one kite to start with then look around the 3-4m size. If you can afford two kites then look at getting a 2.5-3m and 5-6m kites dependent on your weight Obviously if your a bit of a chip stick then look at the smaller end and if your a chunky monkey look at the larger end. Either way just make sure you get a low/medium aspect 4 line fixed bridle foil kite. HQ Beamer II-III. Peter Lynn Pepper I-II. Peter Lynn Hornet. PKD Buster II. Ozone Cult, Samurai I-II, Little Devils. Flexi Rage, (the flexi Sting range is ideal for kids under 12). These are all low lift, low aspect kites that will last a long time and unless you progress very quickly will stay in you quiver for years. Don’t be tempted by getting a bar for your 4 line fixed bridle kite, IMHO they’re a waste of money and you lose half of your control over the kite. Like wise wait until you can control the kite and board before you get a harness and hook in using a strop (a length of line that runs between your handles) because its hard to unhook whilst getting dragged along face first. THE BOARD: There is a lot of boards out there to choose from with a price range to match. You can buy a cheap maple ply deck for less than £100 all the way upto £400 for a carbon fiber deck. What board you get is dependent ultimately on what you intend to do. Cruise, freestyle, freeride (a bit of both) plus your weight comes into it. How much you spend dictates what hardware comes on the board. There is a whole world of parts that come fitted on different decks! Look for brands such as Scrub, Trampa and MBS, there are other brands out there but you really cant go wrong with any of these company’s For the money the whole Scrub range takes a lot of beating and Trampa make decks you can drive a car over and not break, MBS also make good boards If you just want to cruise then look at a deck that’s around 100cm and fitted with channel trucks. For freestyle look for a deck that’s around 90cm fitted with skate trucks, and for freeriding anything in between the two. OTHER ESSENTIALS: Helmet. Pads (elbow, knee). Insurance (£15 from the BPKA). Kite killers (nearly all new kites come with them now). Crash shorts. Ground stake. Sunglasses. Now before you try going all Lewis Wilby. Learn the basics: Practice flying the kite before you jump on the board, this might only take 30 minutes or it might take you a day but knowing how to control the kite is more important than knowing how to control the board. Learn to ride the board, for this I would recommend finding a gentle grass slope. Think grassy knoll more than mount Everest. Now before you get on the board you need to decide if your a regular or a goofy rider (left or right foot forward). To do this is easy, imagine your running on a slippery floor and want to slide. We’ve all done it weather on ice or a slippery floor. What foot you put forward is what your leading leg is. If you put your left leg out and have your weight on your right leg then you have a regular stance and going to the left with the kite is likely to be your stronger side. Vice versa if you put your right leg forward and put your weight on your left leg. Ride down the slope with out the kite to get used to carving heelside and toeside. To stop on the slope either lean back to carve up the hill or crouch down and grab the middle of the board and just lean back hard. This will make the board turn sideways and you will slide to a stop. Putting them both together: Now for the fun/painful bit. On a nice wind day ie 8-15mph head to the field or beach and prepare to fall! HA HA. When you feel confident about doing the above its time to hop on the board with the kite! Keeping your back to the wind and the kite overhead point the board 45deg down wind and then put your leading/strongest foot in the binding first followed by your trailing leg. You put your leading foot in first, because sods law says that if you put your trailing foot in the binding first you will do something stupid with the kite and be flat on you back with lots of people laughing at you (try to get used to it, every body loves to laugh and cheer when they see a boarder bail). Now with both feet in the bindings and the kite over head (assuming your going to your left first) your ready for action. Now depending on wind speed your gonna have to do one of three things. If the winds strong then gently lower the kite from 12 o’clock (above you) down to around 10-11 o’clock and you will feel the kite starting to move the board, once you get to a jogging speed you need to apply some heel side pressure to help you go across and up wind, this also helps keep tension in the lines and stops you catching up with the kite and the kite then collapsing. In medium winds you will need to be a little more aggressive when dropping the kite down to10o’clock in the window, it might even help taking the kite over to 12.30-1 o’clock before sending it to 10 o’clock, once again when you reach a jogging speed lean back and apply heel side pressure to turn the board up wind. In lighter winds its hard to get going as you need to be nicely powered to board with but practice and you will get it. As above you will need to be even more aggressive with the kite to get the power you need out of it. Start by moving the kite to 1 o’clock then instead of sending it to 10 o’clock fly it to the ground with an S shape motion and aim to have the kite coming to about 9 o’clock after the manoeuvre, then you will need to keep the kite moving up and down like this \/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\ so air keeps flowing over it and generating power to move you. Once moving try and pick an object level or just up wind of you as this will give you a point to aim for and lets you know if you moving up wind or down wind. Once at the end of your run gently gently bring your kite up to 12 o’clock and then gently over to 1 o’clock the kite will now act like an air brake and slow you down till you stop. Now just repeat the above description going the other way and before long you will have clocked it. Trusting the kite and leaning back is the most important part of getting up wind. But as you lean back you inevitably apply a lot of heelside pressure which in turn make you crank up wind more but you will come to a stop and drop on your arse. To prevent this as you lean back point your toes forwards, this will prevent you from applying to much heelside pressure and stopping. Author : Lee Sadler Author Website : http://www.learntopowerkite.com
  20. My mission was to find a cheap board on which to learn to landboard on. I had been static flying for about 10 months before I got this board. This is a basic and cheap board its spec is: * Freestyle deck, overall length 97cm, 89cm (laminated maple) deck. * Full coverage grip tape. * Raider 38cm (15') alloy trucks (PU cushioning suspension). * 10cm nylon wheels with 18cm (7') tyres. * ABEC-3 (608Z) bearings. * Freeflex bindings and leash. I got this of Ebay for only £10 and it still had plastic on the top of the board! So as value for money goes it can't be beat - though I believe that it was on sale in Argos for £70. But as the old adage goes you get what you pay for. This board doesn't look particularly sexy and is basic. The footstraps are only adjustable by moving which hole they are bolted on to the board (a choice of 3 on each side) so it is rather limited and I have found that for my feet it is either too tight or a bit loose - I have gone for a bit loose (as I'm still doing plenty of falling over and don't want my board to follow me as I do!). The deck has got virtually no pop - so it's not going to be the best for jumping with, and add the weight factor (as this board is a bit of a tuck shop kid) to this and you can most defiantly find better free style boards out there - but this isn't aimed at that. As far as learning to board on its fine, it feels sturdy and can take a lot of hammering - just what you want for all those crashes you going to make learning. The trucks look cheap but do the job and are on the softer side of medium - so if you're big you may find you need to change the rubber shock for stiffer one (though you will need to get Scrub ones as Exit don't seem to do spares). The whole deck is covered with grip tape which makes the board look rather bland but it enable you to ride 'feet out' if needs be when learning. Overall, this is a fine board for learning on and if you can get one really cheap like I did then go for it, otherwise if you are going to pay full price for it you would probably be better using the money as part payment towards a better board, as you will soon see the limitations of this board. By : Outdoor_Adam
  21. Having just got into kiting, the natural progression from flying had to be for me, landboarding. So after many hours of internet use and abuse I opted for the bluearth C series tribal. Now as a first board (its advertised as intermediate to expert) it is cheap enough, I paid less than £100 for mine on ebay brand new. It duly arrived and I eagerly assembled it. The instruction manual is total pants but you don't need to be a rocket scientist to put it together. The deck is ply with the stickers applied on top off the laquer as is the rubber grip stuff where your feet go, longevity does not seem to be on the makers mind. The trucks are stainless as you would expect and have reasonable amount of turn. The wheels are standard 8 inch. when I unpacked the board an awful lot of the nuts and bolts and screws were loose. I know you are supposed to check anyway but come the factory should have at least done the wheel halfs together properly. That aside the board has a good amount of bounce (I am 14stone though) and the deck didn't seem to mind my weight. As for using it,well the first few tentative tries gave me glipse of its potential and now that I am getting more proficient it is showing its true colours. It turns well, gets up to speed quickly and absorbs bumps and speed wobbles. as for jumping I have not got that far yet but the board is quite heavy so for a fat git like me it might be a struggle,especially the landing! Overall the board is good value for money though and is good as a first board because it is quite cheap,fairly stable, turns ok and has nice large and wide deck so it is easy to hop onto whilst you concentrate on getting your kite to where it needs to be. By : david.brown1230
  22. About 18 months ago i got this board as my first flyboard. As a beginner i looked around for a sturdy board that would allow me to learn the "delicate art" of flyboarding. In these 18 months the board has been used on average 2 times a week, and always at the beach. Most of these days i do 12 kilometer runs, more or less downwind, and take the public transport back home. During its lifetime my board encountered tons of sand, ended up immersed in salt water numerous times, and has gone over a lot of rocks (usually quite smooth rocks though) as the beach here is full of those rocky constructions to temper the waves. This review is based on 18 months of fairly heavy use, so it's not a "whee i got a new board and it looks awesome" review. The main reason for choosing this board, as many beginners do, was the low price. At under 200 euro, this board is very affordable for beginners who are not entirely sure they'll turn out to like the sport, and as such do not want to spend piles of money (yet). There are even cheaper boards, but those are generally classified as kids boards, or boards for very lightweight people. At 80kg, my weight is well above the limit of those boards, so choosing a cheaper board would likely not be a good idea. A second reason for picking this board was the small size. At just 92 centimeters it is the shortest non-kids board from Libre, and in this price range one of the shortest of all common brands. I myself am not that big, and for example a AK102 by Ground Industries felt like i was standing with my legs wide open. It just didn't feel right. A third reason to pick this board are the relatively big tires. They are 23 centimeter diameter and 6.5 centimeter wide, making them more suitable for use on the beach then the standard ground industries or basic libre tires. Anyway, the board arrived in a big box. Much to my surprise, the board had already been assembled for about 80%. The only thing left to do was to put on the wheels. The tires even come inflated, and the trucks and footstraps were already installed onto the board. This means that the board is ready for use about 10 minutes after opening the box. If you compare this to some other brands, where it can easily takes two hours to assemble everything with the tools supplied, this is definitely a plus. Tools are of course included. The deck is made from wood, some kind of multiplex. The thing looked very sturdy, but somehow i was reluctant to go stand in the middle, which is the most stressful position on the deck. When i tried eventually, nothing happened of course, but it felt like i was tempting my luck. I had the feeling that sooner or later, i would probably split the deck in a bad landing. 18 months later it still hasn't happened so maybe i'm careful, or my initial feeling was simply wrong. According to the kite shop personnel, i can break this board with my weight, and they would recommend a more expensive board. That one was too long for my taste so i went with the Sirius anyway. The deck is painted with stars and planets, hence the name Sirius, which is in fact a stars name. The paint is just "on top" of the wood, there is no protective layer. If you want to do railslides, the paint will most likely be completely gone in just a few sessions. The weight of the board comes mainly from the deck as well. Since it's 100% wood, it needs to be quite thick to be sturdy enough. No advanced composites here, so the result is quite a heavy board, even despite its short length. In return you get a way better price then a composite deck would cost you. The weight isn't an issue until you go do serious jumps, and by that time you're likely ready for something better then a beginners board anyway. The skate trucks are quite standard. Someone had given me the advice to tighten them a lot before trying the board with a kite, so that i wouldn't have to worry too much about making unwanted turns. That way i would be able to concentrate on the kite. I had forgotten all about this advice, so my first 3 meters on the board were a 90 degree heelside turn, after which the kite pulled me over and i fell face-forward into the sand. Putting the trucks very tight solved the problem just as predicted. As you get better at controlling your board and the kite at once, you can always just loosen them up again. Meanwhile i have run into the next problem, which is if you want to make a really tight turn with loose trucks, the wheels will actually touch the side of the board. I have compared a number of boards at the kite shop, and unless you get a special model, all boards have the wheels kind of close to the board. I guess if i want even tighter turns, i need a special freestyle board. After 18 months of use at the beach, the bolt to adjust the truck has produced quite some rust around it, which happened on both sides equally. The bolt however still works fine, just looks a bit used. The wheels looked solid enough, and installing them was a breeze. Washer, wheel, washer, nut. Tighten, and ready. Every wheel has a bearing at each side, which i had been told was the part most sensitive to rust. The advice to rinse them off after use in sand and salt water was definitely a good one. Despite all the rinsing every time, after about a year these things were rusty. Very very rusty. The hey-these-things-are-not-moving-anymore-kind of rusty. A quick trip to the kite shop taught me i could get a full set of 8 new bearings for 18 euro. That's 18 euro to make your board behave pretty much brandnew! We're now 6 months later, and the latest bearings are again getting quite rusty. I plan to get new bearings once again, very soon, the difference is certainly worth it. The tires have a diamond pattern, quite nice for dirt terrain, like sand. I already mentioned their fairly large size, very helpful when riding on wet sand. I have so far never replaced a tire or an inner tube, but except for a few pointy rocks, there isn't really a lot on the beach to puncture them. I do not know how well the grip on grass or sand would be, but for sand these tires are excellent. The footstraps are Libre's latest ratchet system. This sounded very nice in the shop, being able to tighten your straps with a click of the mechanism, and release by pressing the other button. Who wouldn't want that! The reality proved quite different though. First of all you never actually adjust these things. You find a nice setting the first time you go on the board, try it, maybe tweak it a bit, and then leave it alone. I have never tightened them around my shoes so that i wouldn't get out of them, because when things go bad, i don't want to be stuck and break my ankles. So basically this whole ratchet system doesn't get used that often anyway. So far it's not good, but not bad either. The bad part about the ratchet system is this: the metal pins that hold the thing together ... they get rusty. The springs inside the system somehow don't. I guess they're made of a different material. Makes me wonder why the pins weren't made from the same rust-resistant material. Anyway, the ratchet still works, i just need to pull it harder to open and hit it hard to close again. The good part about the footstraps is they are wide. They are actually wider on the standard setting then the ones of some other boards that i tried, and they were on the largest setting. At least my shoe fits into this with ease. And just as fast gets out again in case of a crash. The foodpads are just rubber mats with quite large grooves in it. Even covered in wet sand they still give a nice grip. One corner came undone a while ago, but that was nothing a pinch of superglue didn't take care of. They also show zero sign of wear, as sand-paper pads tend to do after such long use. A grab handle is missing completely, there aren't any holes pre-drilled to install one either. Probably because Libre doesn't think a beginner board needs a grab handle. Can't blame them there. This board is meant for learning to ride and learning to jump. If you want to learn to do grabs, you're not beginner-class anymore. To finish i'll say the board obviously has its limits. While the short length makes it very suitable for steep turns, it's on the heavy side for jumps, and because of its length and the skate trucks, anything over 35 kilometers an hour will get you massive speedwobble. I wouldn't recommend going over 30 without a depower kite to hang your weight on anyway. However, in return for this you get a fairly cheap board, and the opportunity to once in a while buy cheap bearings to make your board virtually brandnew again. The board gets rusty if you abuse it regularly with a mix of sand and salt water, but except for the bearings which need rinsing, the rust doesn't really influence the board a lot. For a decent price you get a very nice beginners board, which will take you from your first meters of flyboarding up to (and including) early jumps and some nice pretty fast streaks. This board is not suitable for true boardercross, high speed or insane jumping, but it can do the early steps of each category. Eventually you will probably want a better board, more focussed on whatever your style is. However, if you don't know what your style is yet, this board is the perfect tool to discover. By : Pulsar
  23. Dave103

    Scrub Photon

    I have been riding the scrub Photon for seven months now, both with and without a kite, and it has performed beyond my expectations. As an entry level board it is lightweight, fairly maneuverable and won't break the bank as you can pick one up for less than £100. The limited pop and absence of a grab handle are not a problem for beginners but do become tiresome as you progress and move on to more advanced tricks. It has a 90cm maple deck that is suitable for most weights, plus, it can take a large amount of punishment, I have thoroughly tested its strength and it hasn't let me down yet (that said, I have yet to land any huge jumps on it). Deck: 90cm maple Weight: 5.85kg Truck: solid 13mm skate truck Bindings: Velcro Overall it's an excellent board for beginners with good build quality and a low price tag; I would definitely recommend it to a friend. By : Dave103
  • Create New...