Jason Posted December 1, 2010 Report Posted December 1, 2010 OK we are pretty much sold out of all Sysmic Buggies and Wheels All we have left is 2 of the 8" Rims and some 2.5" rims left. Looks like they are clean out in Europe as well so another production run will be under way soon. For anybody considering Sysmic buggies or rims start getting your wish list ready for pre-orders soon. Jas Briskites Quote
andy666 Posted December 1, 2010 Report Posted December 1, 2010 did you sell that monster S1 buggy? Quote
Jason Posted December 1, 2010 Author Report Posted December 1, 2010 It has a new home in Tasmania Quote
cris italy Posted January 29, 2011 Report Posted January 29, 2011 G'DAY JASON I WONT TO BUY A SISMYC (BASIC)PLEASE LET ME KNOW WHOT I HAVE TO DO TO SECURE ONE ON THE NEXT LOAD EX. DEPOSIT? LAY BAY? OR ANY OTHER SHIT SORRY NOT TOO EAR FROM YOU GUIS BUT I BEEN REALY BUSY I'M BACK KITING AND NEED ALL NEW GEAR !!KEPP IN TUCH REGARDS CRAZY CRIS Quote
JKS Posted February 13, 2011 Report Posted February 13, 2011 How'd ya go CHRIS ,,,,,, did you get one ? Quote
BGKD Posted February 13, 2011 Report Posted February 13, 2011 I was looking at this thread earlier thinking that I should have a chat with Jas to find out when hes making another order of Sysmic gear Quote
JKS Posted February 13, 2011 Report Posted February 13, 2011 I am very happy with my sets of wheels ..... then next thing is Discs, but Symic dont have em Quote
jdhot Posted February 13, 2011 Report Posted February 13, 2011 I'm actually curious to hear if anyone else is having a corrosion issue around the valve, seems it's lifting the protective coating. and whether the corrosion will cause air leaks ? JD Quote
JKS Posted February 13, 2011 Report Posted February 13, 2011 I haven't noticed any on mine .... I have one set that are nearly 30 months old and one set about 12. I will have a close look when I get them out of my container ... whenever that will be Have you spoken to Jason ? That's always a good place to start Quote
BGKD Posted February 13, 2011 Report Posted February 13, 2011 Are they lacquered or anodized? Sounds like the coating was damaged, maybe when the valve was fitted. Id get some scotch bright, clean the corroded area then use some automotive lacquer. Quote
JKS Posted February 15, 2011 Report Posted February 15, 2011 Phosphorus treatment and tropical varnish to make it rust-proof and to assist the maintaining. http://www.buggykiteshop.com/wheel-spar ... m-8x8.html Rust is the process that ferric metals, those based on iron, oxidize, or combine with oxygen. Aluminum is not a ferric metal, so it won't rust. But it will oxidize, which results in a skin of aluminum oxide coating the metal, which protects it from further oxidation. This is why an aluminum can will take 10,000 years to disintegrate. Technically, it corrodes. Aluminum oxide is white and coats aluminum making it less bright. When aluminum starts to get a little less bight, it has oxidized. It's just not called rust since rust refers only to ferric metals. Some good tips on removing the corrosion http://www.ehow.com/how_4480346_remove- ... minum.html Current technology for protecting steel and aluminum boats is plain and simple: Epoxy Paint. Quote
JKS Posted February 15, 2011 Report Posted February 15, 2011 JD .... you running the tubless valves or have you got tubes ? If you can tear yourself away from the Manta thread this might be worth a read viewtopic.php?f=17&t=13603&start=20 Quote
BGKD Posted February 24, 2011 Report Posted February 24, 2011 I guess by JDs silence that we can assume he uses tubes with his rims rather than the supplied tubeless valves Quote
lickedysplit_au Posted February 25, 2011 Report Posted February 25, 2011 I guess by JDs silence that we can assume he uses tubes with his rims rather than the supplied tubeless valves Assumptions assumptions Last I checked JD was running tubeless. Poor JD Quote
BGKD Posted February 25, 2011 Report Posted February 25, 2011 Assumptions assumptions Last I checked JD was running tubeless. Poor JD Regardless hes obviously not that bothered about the problem, otherwise he would contribute to the diagnosis and solution instead of just the piss and whinging Quote
jdhot Posted February 25, 2011 Report Posted February 25, 2011 Regardless hes obviously not that bothered about the problem, otherwise he would contribute to the diagnosis and solution instead of just the piss and whinging Arrrr, people that just make ASSumptions - last I knew I was involved in a NSW XK Kite Event at Stockton and having a great time actually kiting @Troy, yes your right there all tubeless, all 7 haven't checked the 4" rim as yet but all 8" rims are showing signs I do thank you all for the possibly remedies, Oh and don't get me started on the bearings what a load of ???? JD whinging Quote
Jimmy22 Posted February 25, 2011 Report Posted February 25, 2011 i spray my sysmics with wd 40 to stop the bearings going down and to prevent this happening, working well so far. Quote
jdhot Posted February 25, 2011 Report Posted February 25, 2011 Wayne, I usually spin oil into them to free them up, but wd40 works well but helps to brake down grease. Quote
BGKD Posted February 25, 2011 Report Posted February 25, 2011 OK, well that rules out the Galvanic option in your case, would be interesting to see if the other case has similar blistering That picture looks very strange, it looks like blistering, which is exactly what I would not expect with a cast aluminium product, are the blisters aluminium or plastic/paint/coating. If the blisters are aluminium then the only possible cause is if the wheels are die cast (as opposed to sand cast) and the die was too cold when the melt was added, this can cause lamination Quote
JKS Posted February 25, 2011 Report Posted February 25, 2011 Just pulled my old girls out today (3 x 4" and 3 x 8"). They have been packed away for the last 4+ months with a healty coating of salt, sand, dirt and spiderwebs No signs of anything at all around the valves (apart from the above 4 points) Have to agree about the bearings .... they do wear fairly quick. Lucky they are easily replaced Quote
nigel Posted February 25, 2011 Report Posted February 25, 2011 Why are the bearings wearing quick? What size are they? 6000 series? Also is there a spacer inside? My Libre Full Race has had it's bearings for 3 years, and only now are they showing any signs of slowing down, and I'm only talking a tiny amount. A re-grease might improve them, but for the cost of the bearings ($6 each), I just get new one's. I have found that the wheels must be set up right, with a perfect fitting spacer, and even tension with the use of a nut on the wheel bolt. The PL/Flexi style of just bolting the wheel bolt into the axle without a nut, causes more load to the bearings, and shortens the life of the bearing. The PL Expedition buggy didn't use the nut and as a result the spacers, and bearings have a hard life. I got new bearings, and added a nut on the wheel bolt, so they now spin better. Next is new spacers, as the old ones are starting to mushroom, and replace them with much thicker one's. I do most of my buggying on grass so it does get an easy life against the beach for every run. Quote
JKS Posted February 25, 2011 Report Posted February 25, 2011 Yeah Nigel ... they are still 20mm but are a thinner profile bearing to the 20mm in say a STD PL wheel. I am generally replacing mine every 12 months .... when we get out in the muck @ Brighton beach well, it's a bearing busting environment. Super fine sediment mixed therough the sand and salt water.. Most of the boys up here top up with marine grease. Quote
nigel Posted February 25, 2011 Report Posted February 25, 2011 Option to improve the sand ingestion is to use a large washer that will cover as much as possible of the bearing, and fill the void between the bearing and the washer with grease. Upon finishing for the day, remove the washer and wipe away the grease and any sand. Should be no need to spray anything on or in the bearing to keep it running in tip top condition then. Arrrrr, narrower bearings, thats why they burn out quicker! Quote
buggy1452 Posted February 25, 2011 Report Posted February 25, 2011 I have 1x2.5 and 2x8 rims, all running tubes and all have similar blisters at the valve hole. Quote
Chook Posted February 25, 2011 Report Posted February 25, 2011 When the tubes were fitted, was a valve chasser used? (the tool that screws onto the valve stem and has a 300mm flex cable up to a T handle) It's used to pull the valve through the rim after fitting the tire) Just wondered if the cable may have chipped the area around the valve hole slightly. It's all I could think of, that may have damaded the surface sealer. Quote
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