MS PENZ - chill fella.
Jeff Knox is only trying to advice a bit of caution. I surf, scuba dive, swim, canoe... all sorts of water sports on seas, rivers, lakes etc. and its no joke - things can change in a second. Try big surf, cold conditions and cramp and throw in an undercurrent travelling faster than you can run and you will know that the ability to swim will serve you well.
Fine, you may know your local break but people still die. Mark Foo was a well known Hawaian big wave rider and allround water man drowned surfing his local break on an average day.
Grab a wet-suit get down to the beach and do a few weekends just swimming in the shallows to get the swimming thing sorted and it's good for fitness.
Mother nature looks nice but bites when complacent. Also before you say it - I am not "up myself" just would rather not hear that you drowned as probably Knox feels.