downunder

Hi guys, I've been to Bali and got a full two weeks with riding it! Now, it's not easy for me to write an review but in a few words it handles small chop magically since very flexible. It a wobbly board and for me being 59kg this is actually better. I have a bad knees (43yo) and landing is so soft like a butter. Was a bit worried about braking it but no problem at yet. Also, having rounded tips there is no spray what so ever. Tested my Nrth XRide at the same time and spray was significant, actually can't ride it any more. It also goes upwind like crazy. You need to drive it with your legs I would say more than XRide, Shinai (that's the name of it) being more flexible. What I noticed is that for going upwind it doesn't really matter how big the fins are. When I flatten the board than it matters and also with 1" fins can't ride it toe side. Need bigger fins for that. This was on light Bali wind and can't say how will perform in stronger winds. D.

Looks like Plummet finished first, was tight competition with 50/50 chance to be second:) We've been busy while you were down! Welcome back Extremekites! What happened? Anyways, Weight before accessories 2545 grams, 137x40.5cm, concave 3mm, rocker about 3cm (straight 1/3)... More info, as usual, here: http://downunderbloghr.blogspot.com.au/ Cheers D.

Q: how do you regulate a vac pressure? I think the 25-29 vacuum is just to much and got better results with around 15'' . Would suggest some kind of regulator, like instead of this (is it a bolt?) touching the micro switch maybe a real bolt and nut which you can move slightly left or right? 30inHg over 24hrs might pull the mdf apart near your vac advance device:) Just my 2 cents... PS Forgotten to add, got the timer switch from D.Smith to use with my pump. If I get something like a check valve ( aquarium shops, used for water?), might have a vac bag evacuated and run a vac pump with the timer every 10-20mins or so. Source: http://www.badger.rchomepage.com/vacbag.html "Check Valve - $2.00 from ACP and helps to hold vacuum when your pump can leak air backwards into the suction side"

Thx. I'm a bit lazy at the moment, but you can see how it's been made here: Matt's blog: http://myvirtualshed.blogspot.com/ My work: http://downunderbloghr.blogspot.com/ And many pages about building on this site:) Cheers, D.

Nice. I was thinking the build the same. It takes time tho. Much faster was to make the plaster mold off my production board. Takes 2 hrs max, using 10kg plaster and some fiberglass. With the mold you can vacuum everything inside the bag. Dean

It's exactly the same as North, in a mm, ie by this practical scientific experiment : My: North: [*] But yes, now I'll need to glass the bottom, was thinking the same layout as top - 2x 4oz double bias. Thx. D.

Thanks Norman, yes, a stair case so 1:10 it is. I didn't have a time to glass the bottom before the NY break. Took it for a ride, it's great board, very nice ride and almost no difference when compared with the North product. Aha, this is a good question! It's about 3mm marine ply, than about 4mm ribbing (only air, would be better with some balsa inserts), than about 3mm bamboo. So all around 10mm and 2.5kg. This is a first breakage and you might be right to ditch it. Will not take long to try to fix it and fiber glass it properly at the bottom, tho. What you can't see on the photo are voids in the plywood. I hate to say this is a poor quality marine ply since the void was about 10cm long and 2-3mm wide/deep...Who knows where else is like that. Thanks D.

Hi guys, ok, the board just cracked under one footpad, exactly under ribbing (red line): Looks not too deep, so I've routed this out thinking to put a few bamboo veneer layers with epoxy first, and than if all good, glass the bottom. This is how it looks like now: Now, is the veneer a good idea? Was thinking to glue this area as is after some sanding, and than to use a router for taking 1-2cm off again for the second layer to overlap the first one, than she same for a third layer? Or is there some other, better or faster way? Thanks Dean P.S. Not sure if I've expressed myself clearly, the third layer will cover bigger area and the router will go <1mm deep into the wood. On the above photo is about 2.5mm. If all done well, might look like some wood design or feature...Logo or something, maybe I can make letter V:)

Congrats. Now, don't spend 6mnths building it:) I mean, building a vac pump. Like I did:) Good luck. D.

Awesome effort PeterJ! Maybe an suggestion to add as a comment on Matt's site? How do you trace (back to my previous question:), and what are you building?

Detailed yes, but for basic printout into the PDF and than taking this to ie. SnapPrinting should be ok? Otherwise, how do you guys draw the outline? I'm using a carbon paper on my ply wood. Is there some better and faster method?

Plummet, this might be a great idea! You've got the outline for this board already in the Excel template from Matt's site (DB's board, Template selection 9). Of course, your idea of asymmetrical board is not covered by this tool. As for Paulownia, Matt has already built one. I'm thinking to do the same but still have the bamboo leftovers. D.

The board just cracked, and probably it can be repaired. Not sure about the needed effort tho. Will definitely build more boards this year. Did you see this as the lite wind board: http://www.thekiteboarder.com/2011/02/litewave-2011-wing-analyze-this-board-review/ Also, Matt's blog is resourceful (you guys probably know that already:) http://myvirtualshed.blogspot.com/ Cheers, D.

Yes, it's broken in a straight line between the footpad steel inserts. Almost right in the middle. Interestingly, only a thin, first wood veneer cracked. Hopefully, a few glass layers would prevent this. Unfortunately, took it for a ride in 20-25knts, for which wasn't designed for. 2-3m jump, landed dead flat. My bad. Also, the 6mm bamboo ply is quite heavy, not sure how heavy your board will be! If you like, I can measure my bamboo leftover and weight it to give you a clue?

I would go with the bamboo ply 6mm...Now I'm thinking if I did that it wouldn't break since the bottom 6mm marine ply wasn't strong enough to survive a few m jump...The 0.6mm veneer is just to thin at bottom and it will brake first no matter how many layers are there. Didn't glass the bottom tho, so... Other than that it was a great litewind board for myself being 58kg. http://downunderbloghr.blogspot.com/ D.