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The first snowkite specifc bindings


cstowell

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M'lud I rest my case... Flows rock ;)

 

http://www.powerlinesports.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=58&products_id=308&osCsid=f10e5b893f392dc81cd9ca1b44768c75

 

Cabrinha have release a snowkite specific board (the Empire), along with snowkite specific bindings (the Effect).

 

Seems that Cabrinha are owned by Neil Pryde, who also own Flow. So Flow have built some snowkite specific bindings for Cabrinha... Although they are supposed to be built from the ground up they appear to be rebadged Amp 9 baseplate with squishy EVA baseplate pad (to take the edge of landings) plus the X-Flex strap from the FXT AT, in new colours.

 

Anyone want a pair of last years Pro FS's, in perfect condition? Size L?

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Must admit, its a good idea for selling all their back stock items that wont go, re-label and sell them to people who dont know any better....that'll work!!

 

Erm, back stock? The base plates and X-Flex straps are new this season. I don't see any back stock items, all fresh technology for 2006/2007...

 

Sure it's a re-jig of the bindings using currently available parts that are available from Flow this season, however they are a distinct model that have been put together using the most appropriate parts for the job of snowkiting. Not a clearance exercise to get the conspiracy theorists out.

 

They should in theory be the best bindings that you can get for snowkiting. Flows (the best!), but made specifically for snowkiting (even better!)

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I've read here before that it should be 8+ meters ?

 

What is it anyway ? :

 

http://www.snowboarding.com/howto/buyboard/brd_anat.html

 

http://snowboarding.about.com/library/glossary/bldef_sidecut.htm

 

http://www.omerandbobs.com/info%20center/winter%20faq/generalstuff1.html:

 

Sidecut: Technically this is the difference between an average of the tip and tail measurements and the waist of the ski or snowboard, divided by two. Practically speaking, if you placed the ski sideways against a wall so that the edges at the tip and tail were touching the flat surface, the sidecut would turn out to be the distance from the waist edge of the ski to that wall. Instead of listing the sidecut as a single number, like 22mm, some companies use the terms sidecut and dimensions interchangeably. Sidecut tells you how much arc or shape your skis possess.

 

http://www.omerandbobs.com/info%20center/winter%20faq/images/sidecut.jpg

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Well that explanation refers to the sidecut depth, which is difficult to compare to another board (or ski) because the length has an effect on how the board behaves. The sidecut radius is a much better comparator.

 

Anyway, if 8m+ is good, then my freeride board will be OK with its 9m radius, and I can set a centred stance on it.

 

Although despite the 11m radius I won't be using my swallow tail :-)

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@ cstowell, any experience of the K2 synches? Been considering these this season...

 

Nah, not for any period of time. They do look good however. I've heard of quality issues (from a mate that works in a winter sports supermarket) in last years models, however this year's models look sweet. Apart from a critical failure the 2nd main problem than people seem to have with them is the highbacks popping open. It's not common, but a PITA when it does happen ;)

 

The major competitor is the ubiquitous Flows, however the same guy did say that they have a fairly high number of returns (in comparison to say Burton bindings) due to the wire that connects the footplate to the highback snapping/pulling out in the cheapo models. High end models don't seem to have the same return rate however.

 

I'd try and play with some in a shop, preferably on a board with boots on, buy the one that you are happiest with. Both makes offer convenience that's simply not available with conventional bindings.

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Well that explanation refers to the sidecut depth, which is difficult to compare to another board (or ski) because the length has an effect on how the board behaves. The sidecut radius is a much better comparator.

 

Anyway, if 8m+ is good, then my freeride board will be OK with its 9m radius, and I can set a centred stance on it.

 

Although despite the 11m radius I won't be using my swallow tail :-)

 

8-9M sidecut radii boards are freely available. That's why most people recommend them, they're are a good compromise for a board that needs to be used for downhill as well as snowkiting. A 20M+ sidecut radius is great for getting over on edge and just hoofing it, however it does get in the way of carving, but how often do most people carve turn when snowkiting?

 

To be honest if you're riding knee deep powder then it doesn't make the slightest difference as far as I can tell. You could be riding a piece of varnished plywood from the garage and you'd still have fun.

 

In firm conditions then the smaller sidecur radius will cause the board to want to turn back upwind when the edge is loaded up (i.e. when the kite's powered up and you're starting to rip along. This translates to a skittish feeling when travelling at speed. It basically makes it trickier (but not impossible) to keep a straight line when powered up.

 

If you're into airtime and low speed technical manoeuvers then it's not such a big deal...

 

Bear in mind that freeride boards are highly directional (i.e. shape and flex pattern) and so will ride very differently from regular direction to fakie. It's certainly more of an issue than the sidecut, and can really get in the way.

 

Remember that snowkite specific boards aren't the holy grail that the marketing spiel often suggests. i.e a short Nobile in knee deep powder won't be as much fun as a huge freeride board in light wind/powder conditions as you will struggle to get enough float to get everything going.

 

The right board will be a combination of:

  • length, waist width and nose/tail width - these affect float (bigger board esp. tail/nose increases float for deeper snow, responsiveness (wider boards take longer to transition from edge to edge)
  • flexiness - stiffer boards are usually more stable at speed, flexy boards usually have more low speed pop, but flap around at high speeds.
  • sidecut - affects responsiveness, short sidecut radius = tight turns, but instability on edge at high speeds with a sideways load
  • graphics - if it has kewl graphics you'll learn to live with the compromises ;)
  • board tune - such as wax/teflon wipes, edge bevel angles, tip/tail tune/detune according to personal preference.

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o o i wanna pair i wanna pair :p

 

2 questions though and sorry if theyve already been answered.

 

1. what makes there binding more suitable for kiting than normal flows..etc

and

2. will they be ok for normal snowboarding or will they just be ideal for snow kiting?

 

1. The combination of highback, foot strap, and base is selected from Flow's parts bin specifically for the kind of response and flexibilty that Flow think that snowkiter's want. They're a more specific binding than Flow's regular range, basically a tweaked version for us.

 

2. They'll be fine for normal snowboarding as long as you're looking for a freestyle binding.

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mmmmmn...I could be interested....$40 is nothing for a set of brand new bindings....I'd like to know how much they would be including all taxes and import duty:) ....maybe worth is to take a gamble:)

 

*EDITED AND CORRECTED IN NEXT POST*

 

Cheers dude, they replied to my email and have them in stock , yipee:)

Estimated $40 P&P.

I'm gonna see if anyone else wants a pair and stick an order together.

A good time to buy with the £ :)

You got yours yet?

 

Keishin - Erm, Nope :D

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