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Looking for Leading link forks or someone who could possibly build me some for beachracer tyres. Or even just a standard set of forks🤷♂️ Many thanks in advance Matt
This review aims to cover: 1. How to easily and non destructively change the Angle of Attack AoA of the 5m Pansh Ace 2. Why you would what to do this 3. The results from some of my experiments, to demonstrate what to expect While this article is specifically aimed at the 5m Pansh Ace, The principles applied could be used on almost any kite, it would just depend on how the bridle was constructed. However all the measurements and fittings would differ from kite to kite, and size to size. For a brief introduction to Angle of Attack (AoA) see: * http://www.racekites.com/theory/angleofattack.asp To test out my ideas I constructed a full Adjustable Angle of Attack (AAA) x2 bridle similar to that found on some production kites (some U-Turns, PKDs and the BladeIV). Rather than repeat everything the diagrams in this manual show what I fitted to my Ace x2 (note - the Blade AAA kit WILL NOT fit the Ace) http://www.flexifoil.com/downloads/instruction_manuals/bladeiv_tripleA_ammend.pdf Using my AAAx2 bridle I can alter the AoA for my Ace (on the ground) in under a minute. HOWEVER, the measuring and tieing of this AAAx2 bridle was quite complex, needing a lot of patience and accuracy It took me around 4 hours work in total. Also I'm not sure of the long term durability of my handiwork. Hence now I've finished playing with AoA, I've fitted this EASY PEASY AoA TWEAK (EPAT) This EPAT has the advantage that it is: * a non destructive way to change the Ace AoA and easily removed to return the kite to its "factory" state * very easy to fit and quick to make, * needing very little materials * very difficult to get wrong! * easy to understand * causing less drag than AAA The downside that: * you have to undo a the bridle leader loops to fit or change it. * It takes me about 4mins to reconfigure the AoA with EPAT, as opposed to 1min with AAA So how does it work? The Pansh Ace is bridled as shown in the diagram below. To decrease the AoA you have to: * lengthen the B row of bridles, * lengthen the C row by double the B measurement, * lengthen the brakes (or shorten power lines to keep the hands in the same neutral position) To increase the AoA you have to: * lengthen the B row of bridles, * lengthen the A row by double the B measurement, * shorten the brakes (or lengthen power lines to keep the hands in the same neutral position) There is a slight complication in that on the Ace the AoA of the tips needs to be less than the root (called Washout), I found if it was the other way, with greater angle at the tips (Washin) the kite was unstable. With EPAT these changes in the A,B and C bridle are achieved by adding simple measured loops. EPAT The measurements below will allow you to adjust the AoA of the 5m Pansh Ace by the following amounts: * minus 4 degrees AoA * minus 2 degrees AoA * plus 2 degrees AoA * plus 4 degrees AoA To achieve negative AoA you need to make the following double loops. Its best not to get too fixated about the measurements of the loops themselves, as different thickness of line take more or less distance in the bridle attachment loops. What's important is the changes to the bridle lengths the loops achieve when fitted and pulled tight: * C row - C2/3/4 = 2x 28mm and 48mm - (changing length by 20mm and 40mm) * C row - C5/6 = 2x 31mm and 56mm - (changing length by 25mm and 50mm) * B row - B2/3/4 = 2x 18mm and 28mm - (changing length by 10mm and 20mm) * B row - B5/6 = 2x 18mm and 31mm - (changing length by 12mm and 25mm) To achieve positive AoA you need to make the following double loops. * A row - A2/3/4 = 2x 18mm and 38mm - (changing length by 10mm and 30mm) * A row - A5/6 = 2x 31mm and 56mm - (changing length by 25mm and 50mm) * B row - B2/3/4 = 2x 13mm and 23mm - (changing length by 5mm and 15mm) * B row - B5/6 = 2x 18mm and 31mm - (changing length by 12mm and 25mm) I made my loops from 150kg SK75 Dyneema, and the extra 6 to 8mm on the first section of each is to allow for the extra length needed for the extra set of loop connections. This measurement will vary with the line used, hence my stressing it's the overall length changes that are important, not the loop length, You could make it even simpler, and just make a variety of measured single loops. This might be a lot easier, entirely up to you. Use: * green measurements for two degreees * blue measurements for four degrees Any power or bridle line 150kg and stronger would do, it takes around 2m in total. Construction is easier to show than describe. Here's a part set to allow -ve AoA only (B&C) ... To construct them I first fold the line in half, and tie a simple overhand knot at the right position for the first knot, then do the same for the second. I trim the line ends to 1cm overlong, and then use a lighter to seal the ends. Simple. It is a good idea to label or colour code them somehow ... Fitting the EPAT. * For minus AoA you use the B and C set ONLY * For plus AoA you use the A and B set ONLY I'll demo minus 4 degrees AoA attack below (end settings) but the principles are the same for -ve and +ve. 1/ Undo the loop on the big black knotted pig tail that collects the three bridles leaders on each side together. 2/ As the very tip (1 column) A, B & C are very close together, and are very close to the 2 row, I've found you don't need to change this one. Hence put this bridle set to one side. 3/ Undo the bridle leader loop that collects A-C/2-4 together 4/ Loop together B 2,3,4 together using the 18/28mm loop 5/ Loop together C 2,3,4 together using the 28/48mm loop 6/ Reattach the bridle leader loop by going though A2,A3,A4 and the end loop of the B and C EPAT loops you introduced above (end loops = 4 degrees, shorter loops = 2 degrees) 7/ Repeat this process for the bridle leader loop that collects A-C/5-6 together using their appropriate loops. 8/ Redo the black link cord to pull the three bridle leaders together, you can retie it with a smaller knot. Note I've changed the pigtail here, to make the powers more obvious. 9/ One side done, repeat with the other. Adjustment of AoA is achieved jut the same way, moving all the bridle leaders to the same loops remembering * For minus AoA you use the B and C set ONLY * For plus AoA you use the A and B set ONLY That's it! its that simple. ======UPDATE======= Clarkee has come up with an alternate way of doing this which allows adjustment both ways ... nice one mate! "Make row C and row A loops with five knots in it and row B loops with only 1 knot. The middle knots of loops A and C would be equal to the length of the row B loop and by moving row A up a knot and row C down a knot or vica versa would pivot the kite around the row B altering the AOA A1/B1/C1 length would also need an extra loop (the same size as B row) to account for the overall length of the other loops." Also many thanks to Castle who has added another excellent alternative that could be used in addition to Clarkee's above, "Why not just larkshead the bridles onto your red knotted lengthening cords rather than attaching the way you show. This would allow easy adjustment without taking the bridle apart each time" Keep the ideas coming folks! ================= Why would you want to do this?? Changing the AoA fundamentally changes the way the kite flies. Increasing the AoA will ... * Make the kite fly slower. * Will allow it to fly in less wind. * Will decrease the size of the wind window (kite doesn't go as high or wide) * Will give more lift and float Decreasing the AoA will ... * Make the kite fly faster * Will increase the size of the wind window and makes it easier to get upwind in buggy * Will give less lift * Will require more wind to fly. So which way do I adjust my Ace?? That's really up to you, what you want, and what your Ace currently does. By far the best advice is: * FLY IT FIRST, IF YOU ARE HAPPY WITH IT THEN DON'T CHANGE IT!!! Having said this there are reputable reports that not all Pansh Aces are the same. Mine was one of the initial batch and it was VERY lifty. Hence I'm now running it with minus 4 degrees AoA to make it faster and less lifty in a buggy. If your Ace is lacking lift, then its possible Pansh have reduced the AoA on latter models. Try increasing the AoA 2 or maybe 4 degrees ... but DO THIS CAREFULLY IN LIGHT WINDS. With the Ace in "lift" mode, it will loft a 20+ stone person when simply parked at the Zenith. Lastly there is no reason to stick to my measurements, so long as all the measurement are in proportion there is no reason you couldn't go for 3 or 6 degrees ... The best advice is just try it, experiment, and have fun doing it. Then see if you like your modifications in a variety of conditions. Experimental results As the Ace's seem to vary I'm not going to give my results in degree measurements. Instead I'll describe the flying characteristics I found in various setups: Acceptable range Higher range AoA Kite launches fine, straight up to the Zenith, loads of lift and pull but slower. Easy to get jumps with nice float, Lifts even parked at the Zenith. Kite is difficult to fly out of the window and difficult to luff. Wind window is quite small - under 90 degrees. Lower Range AoA Kite is noticeably faster with lower lift. Kite now flying much higher, definitely over the top, beyond vertical. Wind window much larger, beyond 90 degrees. It is quite easy to fly the kite out of the window and luff it. Even sitting at the edge, a small gust can take the kite out of the window and luff. Recovery should be Ok without "bang re inflation", but it may Bow tie Troubleshooting Too low AoA VERY fast, looking good until it gets to the edge of the window, then the upper most tip folds every time. Too High AoA Kite difficult to launch, sits very low in window, very slow and grunty. Washin - angle of tips too high Kite is very unstable at the edges. Its quite odd, but with the kite sitting at the edge, a slight lessening of the wind sees the kite starts to fly backwards, deflating slowly. Its difficult to recover from this. By : andya
For those of you who have a Blade III 6.6, 8.5, or 10.5, you may be interested in this review of the superblade. The superblade is a Blade III with some relatively simple bridal modifications that convert it to a 4-line de-powerable foil. The modifications are the result of a significant amount of experimentation that was conducted by my friend who goes by the handle of "loco4viento". I contributed mostly as a test pilot and also put together the attached diagram. The diagram as well as the comments below are based on the 10.5 Blade. These mods are effective on the 6.6 and 8.5 as well. Basically the modification removes the entire C and the most lateral B bridal lines from the A and B bundles and combines them into a new bundle that is then coupled to the existing break bridal leaders. In addition a new A line is added from this new bundle to the most lateral A bridal Y junction. A normal LEI or ARC bar and lines is used where trailing edge lines are attached to the break leaders and the leading edge lines are attached to the A/B bundle. The bar does need to provide a fair amount of sheeting. I use a 20" line from my shackle to my power strap. All I can say is "WOW". I was about to sell this kite because of it's very narrow range and scary, difficult flying characteristics. Now it has great range, easy and fast turning, and much better upwind performance. It also is very safe and easy to deal with on the beach. This kite flies a lot like an original S-ARC with turning characteristics between and 840 and a 1120. With the normal bridal configuration, there was always a compromise in the bridal adjustment between grunt and up-wind performance. To get the power to water start in really light wind the angle of attack needed to be higher resulting lots of grunt on a dive but a very athletic, marginally up-wind ride. When set up with a lower angle of attack there was not enough grunt to get started in really light wind. The superblade mods give you more of each characteristic. Sheeting in during a dive provides nice grunty power. Once your up and going sheeting out brings the kite farther up wind than I have ever wittnessed any kite go allowing me, at 155lbs with flat board, to park the kite at 8mph with a relaxed edge and go WAY up wind. The huge bar pressure and lethargic turning characteristics are gone. However one must use a little caution not to turn to hard or the kite can stall in the turn since it now comes around so fast. On the beach the tiger has been tamed. When sheeted out there is very little pull when the kite is overhead and there does not seem to be any tendency to over fly. It's not as stable as an S-ARC but does not require much attention. The problem of the kite losing it when parked to far to the edge of the window is reduced dramatically as well. Landing is much improved. With the power strap fully loose all you do is pull the bar all the way in and the kite will drop down nicely right down the middle of the window. The kite is also great land boarding and gets you going up wind quite well in 4-5mph winds. I land board in the desert and the winds are very gusty and shifty. I would have never considered riding with a standard Blade in these conditions. This is not a problem now although not recommended for beginners. This kite can still hurt you badly in gusty conditions if you aren't on top of it. Summary I highly recommend this mod to those of you who have one or all of these kites. As far as I can tell the only sacrifice is the greater simplicity of two line flying. In every other way performance and safety is improved. The mod does not involve any permanent changes to the kite and takes less than an hour to perform and you can always change it back if you don't like the performance changes. Chris By : screven
Crossfire "Depower" Review Kites Tested – HQ Crossfire 2.4m, 3.2m, 5m, and 7.7m This is not a review of the standard Crossfire, but an account of my findings after retro fitting a depower bar system to the kite. In the beginning For the last 10 months or so, I had been using ARC style kites for my buggying and boarding exploits. While the stability and performance of these kites cannot be denied, sometimes you can be left with a slightly muted, detached feel. So, last month, when I received my first HQ Crossfire kite – to be flown on handles no less – it was something of a wake up call... Crossfire owners will know exactly what I mean when I say this kite has character – very fast across the sky, great upwind, surprising lift and float even in the smaller sizes, and more power per square inch than most kites I have flown. The Crossfire ride is raw and direct, the anti-thesis of the sometimes remote characteristics of my staple kites. The Crossfire is mostly flown on handles, and really responds to active brake input from the pilot to get the full potential of the kites stability and performance. For this reason, flying on a bar with the Flexi style free brakes system is not really an option. There was speculation of a depower option being available for the kite before its release, but it never materialised. There are some great boarders using handles these days, but I am not one of them (!) so, being keen to use the Crossfire for my boarding sessions, I decided to retro fit a depower system to my quiver of Crossfires... Retro Fit My retro depower system comprises – one depower bar complete with trim strap, two small pulleys on to which is ‘larks headed’ an 18cm loop of nylon (available from any chandlers), two 116cm lengths of strong nylon chord. In the nylon chord, I tied a knot at each end, and one more 23cm in from one end. To fit the system is quite straightforward. With the kite secured on the ground, remove the brake and power lines from the kite’s bridles. Take the pulley with its attached nylon loop, and larks head it onto the power bridle, as you would normally do with the lines. Run one of the 116cm lengths of nylon though the pulley, and attach the power line to the end furthest away from the knot you have tied in the nylon. Next, tie a loop into the end of the brake bridle leader, and 'larks head' that around the knot you tied 23cm in from the other end. Now to finish off, attach your brake line to the remaining end of the long nylon chord. Do the same to both sides of the bridle. The bar set up is the same as with any depower style kite – brake lines to the ends of the bar, and the power lines to the trim strap. The bar that I used was the one from the Advance Offroad kites, with the safety leash attaching to the brake leaders, so when the safety is pulled, the kites flutter to the ground on its brake lines. This system worked well for me; I have not experimented with ‘re-ride’ safety systems. Test Conditions My location for testing the kites was at the Skypark, an inland flying site. The winds, while constant, were sometimes lumpy due to the presence of rain and heavy cloud cover. I have not tested the kites in very gusty conditions. Launching and Edge of Window Control The Crossfire launches much the same as other depower kites – sheet in the trim strap and push the bar forward to create slack in the brake lines. Pulling on the centre lines, just in front of the trim strap, helps the kite up to the zenith in lighter winds. With the kite at the zenith, a little input from the bar is needed to prevent over flying. Guiding the kite round to the edges of the window, tension is needed in the brake lines to ensure stability, much the same as when flying with handles. Kite Feedback All the Crossfires I tested felt surprisingly natural and comfortable on the depower bar when static flying. Turning is crisp and predictable, the kite even responds like a proper depower kite – pulling the bar in gives you a faster turn rate, while letting the bar out slackens the brake lines giving you a larger turning radius – some older, big name depower foils didn’t manage to get that bit right! Bar pressure is solid, with the bar feeling nice and ‘springy’ in the middle third of its travel – a good sign. Four Kites, One Bar. My retro depower system worked the same for all the kites, no extra modifications were necessary. Starting with the smallest kite, the 2.4m in 10knots wind, the kite zipped around the sky, retaining its feisty characteristics. The 3.2m was a real peach, fast and precise, nice and stable, and great fun in the buggy. In stronger winds, the 3.2m proved to be a great boarding kite, retaining its shape very well, and even generating a nice bit of float and lift, allowing some nice jumps and grabs with the board. The 5m, in 15knots of wind, required a lot of active brake input to keep its shape in the sky, and it took me a while to get tuned in to the kite. With practice though, the kite began to reveal its potential. On the day of testing the 5m, the wind increased some more, and this made the kite easier to fly. Being hooked in to the kite with the depower system made holding the power in the stronger winds easier than with handles and a strop (for me personally). Possibly my favourite of the whole quiver was the 7.7m. I had really enjoyed this kite on handles, and with the depower set up I was able to hold the huge power generated by this kite. Smooth, big floaty jumps were no problem, with enough hang time to land foot outs, rotations and other freestyle tricks. Turning speed was still rapid with this kite – even using the same bar length as the tiny 2.4m – that’s the beauty of brake line turns! Redirecting the kite in the air was easy, and by sheeting the bar right in, I could extend the length of my jumps and prevent the kite from collapsing due to slack lines. From the 3.2m Crossfire upwards, all kites produced great lift for board jumping. The technique I used was the same as for most depower kites – bar sheeted out, holding an edge cruising upwind, quickly send the kite to the zenith, and pull the bar in. It is vital to pull the bar fully in on landing to prevent the kite from collapsing. Repower more than Depower The Crossfire is a lot of fun on a depower bar set up, I was impressed enough after my initial experiments to want to use the system again. The Crossfire is not a beginners kite, and it would be wrong to tout it as a ‘my first depower’ option. The kite requires good flying skills and understanding of performance kites to avoid frustration. The rewards are certainly waiting for those willing to try, and the depower option further adds to the versatility of the kite – the market is far from crowded with kites that can be flown on handles or a depower bar. The wind range of the kite isn’t really increased, the Crossfire still generates a lot of power even with the bar sheeted out and the brake lines slack, so don’t expect to be able to take your 5m out in 30knots! Using my set up, I found that the kite wasn’t usable on all settings of the trim strap – with the strap let right out, the kite would back stall. But for me the advantage of putting my Crossfires on a depower set up was not to increase the wind range and give me an alternative to the state of the art depower kites on the market, but to add a new dimension to my session with these kites. Since acquiring my Crossfires, they have quickly ascended in my estimation and I now use them as my first choice for recreational and buggy riding. For boarding, I can get higher with my ARC kites – but the Crossfire makes for a more full throttle session, still allowing me to practice my freestyle tricks. I feel the Crossfire on depower bar is a proper option – it take minutes to set up, and give the less dextrous fliers like myself chance to get some serious freestyle action with the kite, but still retaining that raw power edge that defines the Crossfire experience. If you are enjoying some great sessions with your Crossfire, check this system out – you’ll be surprised at what these kites can do…