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25 minutes ago, Pari said:

Sure, I'd like to get some of these out there. There must be some other Revo nuts out there who'd like to upgrade or repair an old classic. Bit early to say for sure but I could see myself doing some full upgrade kits- housings, alloy straps and sides and the bushings with all the hardware included- stainless nuts and bolts. 

For sure, there will be a market now that all the kitecrowd folk are on here. I was hoping you'd be in a position to do upgrades, spares etc. once you get some testing under your belt. Bushings and the parts that wear would be so good. 😂 I'm still excited

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During this COVID lock down and losing employment because of it I decide I liked being home and it was time to start my own business. I bought a 3D printer to help with design projects- prototypes etc

That would be handy just to know the proper dimensions of the original Revo elastomers. I've got mine at 20mm wide and 40mm diameter, but I found them tough to compress into the housing even though I

Just as an FYI it's @Spike J that created the Revos, a while back he offered the cad files.  I've sent a PM asking if they can be uploaded to the Downloads section, hopefully a copy of the PM lands in

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my footstraps are carbon brackets , and i use heavy duty webbing ,cut down from lorry straps or such like , make up a carboard cutout exactly the shape you want and lay it over the webbing , to cut use a very hot knife so it melts as you cut ,and when you have the exact shape which may take a few attempts then keep it

the brought footstraps are always heavy so i never have used them -i have 3 carbon boards all set up this way -its an indvidual choice ,bling or durable light weight 

the main problem of buying second hand revo's which you can't anymore,  is the rubbers which you can't buy anymore , but when i got my DX ,the rubbers were vey loose and i like a hard setup where i have to lean  alot to turn , i can't stand wobberly trucks

the flexifoil forum was still going then and a guy had an unused set for sale and i jumped on them 

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12 minutes ago, slide said:

my footstraps are carbon brackets , and i use heavy duty webbing ,cut down from lorry straps or such like , make up a carboard cutout exactly the shape you want and lay it over the webbing , to cut use a very hot knife so it melts as you cut ,and when you have the exact shape which may take a few attempts then keep it

the brought footstraps are always heavy so i never have used them -i have 3 carbon boards all set up this way -its an indvidual choice ,bling or durable light weight 

the main problem of buying second hand revo's which you can't anymore,  is the rubbers which you can't buy anymore , but when i got my DX ,the rubbers were vey loose and i like a hard setup where i have to lean  alot to turn , i can't stand wobberly trucks

the flexifoil forum was still going then and a guy had an unused set for sale and i jumped on them 

So are you using your Revos, or do you need bushings to get them going again? Yeah the Revos are no good once the bushings get soft or degrade, but I suppose that can be said for any trucks, just it's easy to get the spare parts for standard trucks.

I'm interested in your Binding set up, any chance of a pic?

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Really enjoying reading about your progress :good:With 3D printing, making the Revo elastomers won't be a problem if you have the CAD file. I've got a near new pair of Revo's in the garage that I've never got around to mounting (landboard is just another toy that I'm crap at :classic_blush:). I'll get a micrometer and measure them up when I get time. What format do you need for the printer?

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1 hour ago, Mfwetu said:

Really enjoying reading about your progress :good:With 3D printing, making the Revo elastomers won't be a problem if you have the CAD file. I've got a near new pair of Revo's in the garage that I've never got around to mounting (landboard is just another toy that I'm crap at :classic_blush:). I'll get a micrometer and measure them up when I get time. What format do you need for the printer?

That would be handy just to know the proper dimensions of the original Revo elastomers. I've got mine at 20mm wide and 40mm diameter, but I found them tough to compress into the housing even though I think that is what the original dimension were. I found that a width of about 19mm wide works best for these truck housings, but I have a set ready for anyone needing some for their Revos.

Got a test run in today with both trucks on and I have to say I am a happy chappy. They are stable yet turn really nicely, I really enjoyed just carving up on them.

 

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2 hours ago, Mfwetu said:

With 3D printing, making the Revo elastomers won't be a problem if you have the CAD file.

 

1 hour ago, Pari said:

That would be handy just to know the proper dimensions of the original Revo elastomers


Just as an FYI it's @Spike J that created the Revos, a while back he offered the cad files.  I've sent a PM asking if they can be uploaded to the Downloads section, hopefully a copy of the PM lands in his email after all these years :) 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 9/10/2020 at 8:47 PM, Pari said:

During this COVID lock down and losing employment because of it I decide I liked being home and it was time to start my own business. I bought a 3D printer to help with design projects- prototypes etc.

It’s been fun trying stuff out, and I’m going to see if I can rebuild my old Revo truck board using printed parts.

I’ve designed the main truck housing to use tradition skate truck hole setup as the original Revos have a specific setup which means drilling into your board.

I’ve printed this first test setup with PETG, which it the same plastic used in plastic drink bottles. So I’m hoping they will be less prone to shatter and may have a little flex. 
I also printed the bushings using TPU filament, not an easy thing to get right, damn stuff just wants to keep clogging up the extruder. But I managed to get two pairs done and they are a perfect fit, if a little stiffer than I want at shore 30D.

I’m no plastics expert, so I don’t know what to expect when I try them out. The wheels may break as soon as I start kiting, the truck housing could just shatter on my first turn- no idea.

But I’ve got new tires and tubes, will re- laminate my favourite board, probably treat myself to some new bindings and see if I can make it work.

7A7A564C-A3F9-4017-916F-AA20F0F602C4.jpeg

 

Good morning friend, would you have at least the STL of the wheel in the measure to supply?

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Good morning Pari. I would like to know how to balance your printed wheel on the 3D printer. Yesterday I just assembled mine and put it on the trucks, I thought the resistance was incredible and I'm not believing that they will break, but regarding the breakdown the wheels were left with a bit of play, the tire I'm using is also not very good . I would like to know if your wheels also look like this and if this is a big problem.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hello Pari. How are your impressions of the wheels? Unfortunately the wheels that I printed on PLA broke on their own, even without using the skateboard, it was enough to put 20 pounds of pressure on them and they broke like yours, the ABS wheels are still firm, the problem that printing in ABS is very difficult due to the detachment of the table piece and the warp. But let's try.

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On 11/24/2020 at 9:58 PM, Renato Borowski Filho said:

Hello Pari. How are your impressions of the wheels? Unfortunately the wheels that I printed on PLA broke on their own, even without using the skateboard, it was enough to put 20 pounds of pressure on them and they broke like yours, the ABS wheels are still firm, the problem that printing in ABS is very difficult due to the detachment of the table piece and the warp. But let's try.

Hi and sorry for not replying sooner. I don't get notifications from this forum for some reason so didn't know this thread was active.

PLA won't be good in the elements anyway and is too brittle. As you know from experience ABS is very problematic for getting good bed adhesion and no spiting layers unless done under very controlled conditions like an enclosed housing. A good replacement that is really taking over from ABS is ASA. It doesn't shrink as much and doesn't give off so many toxic fumes. I used it to print a black pair of truck housings and they were quite successful. But honestly for cost of filament, reliability and ease of printing and strength for this application I still reckon PETG is the best.

Just a reminder on the one wheel of mine that broke- it was done with on 2 or three perimeters, only 20% infill and I and previously bounced that wheel of the concrete floor to see if it would break which it did chip a bit of the rim off and that is were the break originated when I used it on the board. The other rim, which I didn't bounce of concrete and is also printed with the same settings is still going strong. These were printed in PETG.

The image shows the black ASA truck housings, one of which I tried my first attempt of acetone vapor smoothing. The wheels are an updated stronger 3D model done in black PETG, I did a set of four of these ready to go on the board.

I hope this is helpful. I really think you should go with PETG for future wheel prints.

IMG_0467.JPG

On 10/28/2020 at 1:38 AM, Renato Borowski Filho said:

Good morning Pari. I would like to know how to balance your printed wheel on the 3D printer. Yesterday I just assembled mine and put it on the trucks, I thought the resistance was incredible and I'm not believing that they will break, but regarding the breakdown the wheels were left with a bit of play, the tire I'm using is also not very good . I would like to know if your wheels also look like this and if this is a big problem.

Hi,

I have no problem with tolerances for both tire or bearing fitting. I've been developing the CAD for this project for a while now so each time I try a new prototype the 3D gets refined.

My advice for you would be to learn the basics of CAD. It is a must in my opinion for any product manufacturing and especially for 3D printing.

Fusion 360 is the choice for a lot of novice designers and is free for none professional users. Once you have the basics, (and these wheels are basic designs, just extrudes really) you can draw the model to fit the tires and bearing you are using and get the tolerance right.

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