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Nordic-Scout "Wheels of Doom"


windstruck

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Does anybody have any experience using Nordic-Scout skates for kite skating?

http://www.nordic-scout.de

I just ordered a set of these from Germany so they aren't in my possession yet. I've got a nice pair of Seba skate boots that I've been attaching to various frames trying to optimize this sort of setup so I just ordered the frames and wheels, not the fancy brake mechanism or their various boot solutions (which are pretty varied). These Nordic-Scouts look to be a nice step up to something I'm already using made by Powerslide. The Powerslide wheel sets are 150mm x 30mm. These work fine on hard surfaces like the Ivanpah playa (other than the 40wt sandpaper effect Ivanpah imparts all things rubber and inflated) but the tires are a little small for good rolling on grass athletic fields where I'm going to end up doing most of my kite skating. The Nordic-Scouts, on the other hand, have nice big knobby tires measuring in at a (comparatively) beefy 200mm x 50mm. High hopes these will be the ticket as even bigger tires are going to mean custom machining on my part.

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Love that video, always have!  Very last shot is a classic when he buries himself in the massive shrubbery. Those skates look to be the precursor of what I already have from Powerslide. Those had those skeleton shells that you were your own tennis shoes inside of while I have actual skating boots that are bolted to the frames. The wheels are the real focus for me in this most recent quest. @Spartan wheels are likely 150mm by 25mm, possibly 30mm with smooth road tread. I've got wheels just like that too. Similar in size and style to what Rollerblade did on the Coyotes. In well watered and plush grass these tend to sink in a lot and don't roll too well. Another difference is more rider style. He was clearly using a really lifty kite and jumping a lot. I don't really jump but rather park and ride so all my force is pressing down through the wheels. 

The Nordic Scout set up is conceptually the exact same thing just beefed up a lot. Wheels have knobby mountain bike like tires and measure out inflated at 200mm x 50mm so just a good step bigger. I'm hopeful that these larger mini mountain bike knobbies will be the ticket for my conditions.

My Powerslides were fine in terms of rolling resistance on the Ivanpah playa but the 40wt sandpaper effect of that surface I feel will do quick work on the Powerslide tires if I rode a lot there. 

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I know you are not using the brakes, but brakes by rubbing on the tires is a poor design, I remember the cross bow mountain board used a similar brake. Would be cool if they had some sort of internal brake incorporated into the wheel, but then on the other hand just learn how to slide out to brake as is done on landboards.

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1 hour ago, SoutherlyBuster said:

I know you are not using the brakes, but brakes by rubbing on the tires is a poor design, I remember the cross bow mountain board used a similar brake. Would be cool if they had some sort of internal brake incorporated into the wheel, but then on the other hand just learn how to slide out to brake as is done on landboards.

The world is a big place and somebody has done that.  Check out the Gateskate Trailskate:  http://www.cross-skate-shop.com/Trailskates-by-Gateskate

I know a guy who got a pair of these used and wants to kite skate with them.  He says that the first thing he wants to do is figure out how to remove the brake system!

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On 12 April 2016 at 10:13 PM, windstruck said:

The world is a big place and somebody has done that.  Check out the Gateskate Trailskate:  http://www.cross-skate-shop.com/Trailskates-by-Gateskate

I know a guy who got a pair of these used and wants to kite skate with them.  He says that the first thing he wants to do is figure out how to remove the brake system!

My interest in the brakes is for down hill when you can not do a power slide. I agree for purely kiting i would want to remove the brakes as well.

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19 minutes ago, SoutherlyBuster said:

My interest in the brakes is for down hill when you can not do a power slide. I agree for purely kiting i would want to remove the brakes as well.

I wold be curious how applying the brakes work in actual practice. "Going over the handlebars" seems like a very real possibility if you need to put some decent pressure into the braking system. I don't question the ability of the brakes to do their job in the wheel itself; rather, your ability to stay on your feet if you hit the brakes hard. I could see controlling a graceful, gradual deceleration on a smooth surface such as a road or bike trail but I see it going quite differently out in the woods for example.  I'd be wearing lots of "plastic courage" before running those tests. 

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5 hours ago, windstruck said:

I wold be curious how applying the brakes work in actual practice. "Going over the handlebars" seems like a very real possibility if you need to put some decent pressure into the braking system. I don't question the ability of the brakes to do their job in the wheel itself; rather, your ability to stay on your feet if you hit the brakes hard. I could see controlling a graceful, gradual deceleration on a smooth surface such as a road or bike trail but I see it going quite differently out in the woods for example.  I'd be wearing lots of "plastic courage" before running those tests. 

Even doing a power slide to stop can result in the rider going over the handle bars as you put it. It has happened to me a couple of times when I timed the leaning wrong, or when a 180 slide happend unexpectedly and leaning the wrong direction. Most of the time when it all goes well is when I keep my centre of gravity low.

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Nicely played!  I was impressed with how well you seemed to roll in what appeared to be lush long grass. So far I've found that challenging. What I was really appreciating about your performance on the SUVs is how you carved your corners. I'm able to do that quite easily too with my SUVs, to a lesser degree with my Coyote wheel setup and hardly at all with Wheels of Doom set ups. 

Live only really tried the Coyotes so far on the Ivanpah playa which has complete traction. I bet the little bit of slide and give afforded on grass (and I suspect on sand, but I have no experience there) will let the Coyotes carve on grass too but with a wider turning radius. Time will tell for the Doom setups but I suspect the radius of a carved turn on those would be so large as to be impractical for kite skating since you'll slack your lines heading that much down wind. 

Thanks for the post - looking good!

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Thanks. I expect to get XC skeleton power slide skates for tests http://www.skatefun.pl/powerslide-xc-skeleton,id176.html . It is 2013 model so it is available at lower price. I also ordered 20' wheels to make Doom skates. I am going make them and test pretty soon. SUVs offer perfect maneuverability but due to small wheels they often  stop on bumpy surface. I am trying to find good compromise between maneuverability on quick turns and smooth ride on bumpy grass field.

take care

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3 hours ago, Rafał Bohdanowicz said:

Thanks. I expect to get XC skeleton power slide skates for tests http://www.skatefun.pl/powerslide-xc-skeleton,id176.html . It is 2013 model so it is available at lower price. I also ordered 20' wheels to make Doom skates. I am going make them and test pretty soon. SUVs offer perfect maneuverability but due to small wheels they often  stop on bumpy surface. I am trying to find good compromise between maneuverability on quick turns and smooth ride on bumpy grass field.

take care

Just took a look at those skates via your link.  I've got the newer version of the Powerslide Nordic frames and wheels.  These wheels are 150mm x 25-30mm.  The thing I'd be cautious about with these is how low slung the frame is.  I see what they're doing, getting the bottom of your foot close to the center line of the wheels, but there won't be a lot of ground clearance in bumpy grass.  This is why I headed in this direction:  http://www.nordic-scout.de/

These wheels are 200mm x 50mm and the frames don't dip down as much.  I have these on order but they haven't gotten here yet.  Good luck getting dialed in!

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I got my Nordic Scouts from Germany today!!!  Very excited.  The quality and workmanship is as good as I've seen in things of this sort, really first rate.  For contrast, I put the Powerslide XC Trails (with 150x25mm wheels) on the left and the Nordic Scout Frees (with 200x50mm wheels) on the right.

I'm looking forward to donning a helmet and all the "plastic courage" I can dress on my body and going out under a DP kite and testing out these bad boys!

 

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21 hours ago, windstruck said:

I got my Nordic Scouts from Germany today!!!  Very excited.  The quality and workmanship is as good as I've seen in things of this sort, really first rate.  For contrast, I put the Powerslide XC Trails (with 150x25mm wheels) on the left and the Nordic Scout Frees (with 200x50mm wheels) on the right.

Congratulations!

 

Waiting for your report. Pros and contras between 150mm and 200mm. I'm thinking to buy in the future one of this artefacts for skiing without kite

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1 hour ago, agriarte said:

Congratulations!

 

Waiting for your report. Pros and contras between 150mm and 200mm. I'm thinking to buy in the future one of this artefacts for skiing without kite

I will certainly provide a contrast once I get some time on the Scouts.  Appreciate that I wouldn't have stepped up to them if the Powerslides had been enough for my purposes.  The 150x25mm wheels were sinking in the plush grass I try and skate kite on.  The 200x50mm tires on the Scouts are the same size at most mountain boards which plenty of folks have good success with on grass.

The 125x25mm wheels work fine on the rock hard dried mud surface of the Ivanpah playa, a dry lake bed on the border of California and Nevada a little ways outside of Las Vegas.  I fear though that the playa surface (which is sort of like 40wt sandpaper) would wear through the smaller tires pretty quickly.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I got my 150 mm wheel nordic skates, however I have some doubts if they are better than Powerslide Metropolis SUV. Haven't tested them yet since I am curing my broken rib :( ( broken when skate kiting actually ). I think they are too low and on bumpy fields and it is not going to work. There is also 57 cm between axis and I am afraid , being now more aware of possible injuries, that they are dangerous for my knees. Inspired by one skate kiter who created insanely safe system ( below) I am designing my own skates based on four 6 1/4" wheels. I think I will still use original powerslide boots not ski bindings like he did, but they are  going to be shorter and higher, designed for all bumpy fields. The project of my 4mm alu skids for CNC cutting is almost ready ! Some fine-tuning is still necessary.

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Zrzut ekranu 2016-05-08 o 14.10.18.png

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And the quest continues!  Sorry to hear about your rib. So many trade offs.  Completely agree that wheels underfoot feel inherently safer knee-wise.  Four relatively large wide knobby tires might be a great compromise and I wish you the greatest of success with that design. The frames shown in the upper frame are too low slung IMHO which is I think what you are also expressing. 

We are smack dab in the middle of our rainy, soggy, warming, "tween" season here in the Utah mountains and the fields are soft and long and infrequently cut at this point. Everything sinks into them at this point.  I suspect it may be June before I get to contrast the Nordic Scouts with Metropolis SUV setups under kite power. 

I love the fact that you are able to design and then CNC your own frames - that's awesome!

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The idea is to lower two middle wheels to get some more maneuverability while having the "edge" with four wheels when going up the wind. It is also possibly efficient when taking bigger bumps. The question is what should be the difference of vertical position of middle axis to front and back one. For the moment I planned 7 mm difference. Any idea ? 

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3 hours ago, Rafał Bohdanowicz said:

The idea is to lower two middle wheels to get some more maneuverability while having the "edge" with four wheels when going up the wind. It is also possibly efficient when taking bigger bumps. The question is what should be the difference of vertical position of middle axis to front and back one. For the moment I planned 7 mm difference. Any idea ? 

Sorry, I don't have a solid suggestion other than to agree with the basic concept.  Where did you get the 7 mm figure?  Is it from some street skate design perhaps?  I believe the answer is no to this, but any possibility of making the frames open to some sort of adjustment so you could hone it the ideal height split after some testing?  Good luck with all this.

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On ‎8‎/‎05‎/‎2016 at 10:38 PM, Rafał Bohdanowicz said:

I got my 150 mm wheel nordic skates, however I have some doubts if they are better than Powerslide Metropolis SUV. Haven't tested them yet since I am curing my broken rib :( ( broken when skate kiting actually ). I think they are too low and on bumpy fields and it is not going to work. There is also 57 cm between axis and I am afraid , being now more aware of possible injuries, that they are dangerous for my knees. Inspired by one skate kiter who created insanely safe system ( below) I am designing my own skates based on four 6 1/4" wheels. I think I will still use original powerslide boots not ski bindings like he did, but they are  going to be shorter and higher, designed for all bumpy fields. The project of my 4mm alu skids for CNC cutting is almost ready ! Some fine-tuning is still necessary.

IMG_0798.JPG

Zrzut ekranu 2016-05-08 o 14.10.18.png

13043646_1119525754756820_4322831721587504154_n.jpg

They look interesting but very heavy. What do they weigh?

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