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My Splitboard Plans


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Dad's back from the states and he brought a saw-your-old-board kit back for me.

With my tele-boots and a spare board I just happend to have around my plan is to make a split-board I can ride with my teleboots, rather than doing the snowboard boot & binding route which is really bulky.

I plan to cut a kick-skin size pattern into the base with the handy garage CNC I happen to have :)

Thoughts..?

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Just remember, there are no stupid questions, only stupid people.

A split-board is a snowboard cut in half tip to tail that can be configured into skiis for travelling, and then put back into being a snowboard for going downhill (or in this case, snowkiting).

You can't easily/efficiently move over flat ground with a snowboard (without a kite of course) so this solves that problem.

I don't "ski" down hills because I'm much better at snowboarding, so this makes it worth hiking up those hills.

As for the Mill, that's a whole 'nother story. I shall take a photo tonight... We've also got a metal lathe :) I have big buggy plans that involve some carbon work and some milling :)

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  • 1 month later...

So went on a Friday night shopping trip to Bunnings and picked up the essentials. Namely a new blade for the handsaw and various epoxys.

The board in question is a Burton G-Twin 150. It's a girl specifc true twin park board.

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The problem with Burton 3-D binding nuts is that they're dead on the middle of the board. We started by taking a small angle grinding dremel disk to grind them out, but the one we tried it on headed up and bubbled the p-tex on the bottom of the board (only a little). We also considered drilling them out, but not knowing how their bases went in we were worried that they'd catch and spin in the board, causing more damage. I didn't take any photos. We decided to take a shot just putting the handsaw through them very slowly.

After measuring the middle we mounted it on the end of a folding table. Our garage is usually a metal-working motorbike building kind of place, so it was strange to be doing something with timber tools. We used the long timber as a guide. Although the board was hanging off the table we weren't cutting the tips yet, so figured it would hang there.

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Made damn sure the cutting line was off the edge of the table, and I marked out where the embedded nuts were so they weren't an unexpected surprise. At this point I let Ivan have the honours. After Dad lost a finger to a table saw when I was helping him in the garage at 5yrs old I'm really funny about wood saws.

After the first cut we moved the board to the middle of the table to do each end.

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I'll write more on the board later.

So I'm going to use 3-pin telemark bindings when the board is in ski-touring mode, and then these special Volie bindings that sit on the plates to hold the heel and toe of my boots in when in snowboard mode. I've had the snowboard mode bindings for a couple of months now, and there's been a technical problem I can't seem to get around.

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The front lever is meant to go over the front of the boot, but with bill of the telemark boot the lever fouls when your roll it off and won't go on when the distance between front and rear wires is correct. Also, the wires holding the lever bit get caught on the duckbill too so it's pretty generally screwed up. You can see what I mean in this picture - of course it sort of looks like it works here, but it's actually about 5mm too loose.

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But finally the solution hit me. With the dremel I've cut a slot in the front of the boot to take the lever. Works an absolute treat and was the simplist modification I could make to the boot or the binding. I did take the corners of the duckbill off a little bit, becuase the wires were still fouling a little, but not nearly as much as they were before. It's now ROCK SOLID :)

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  • 1 month later...

I'll jump on that Q while Hamil's probably southbound around Goulburn by now...

Let's say you've got your splitty in 2 halves. To set it up for riding as a board you:

1 - Line the 2 halves up so 2 sets of hooks (located outside of the bindings) are enguaged, these hold the 2 halves in 1 direction, and then secure 2 clips (located on the ends of the board) to hold the halves together in the other direction. Now neither half can slide forward or backwards relative to the other.

2 - The board is now held together but the next step is the important structural link. The bindings are removed from their forwards-facing postions and slid over 2 pairs of "pucks", which are pieces of plastic that stay screwed in place on the board, 1 pair for each foot - 1 puck under the heel and 1 for the toe. A pin holds the binding slidey bit in place in the sideways stance position. This means that each binding grips both halves of the board at once. It also means your stance is fixed.

3 - Unpack your kite, and the rest will be written in the epic tomes of history...

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Very interested to see how this one goes! I thought I was one of the only people on the planet that wanted a hardboot option for snowboarding. Although I was thinking Dynafit on the board (without splitting) so I can take skis that can actually be used as skis.

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Ok no worries. Here's a picture of a random someone's splitty.

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The "chinese hooks" are outside the bindings. The top ones here make a "z" shape next to where the "Prior" label is, the bottom ones beside the red and white rectangle near the bottom. These hooks prevent the right half from slipping forward and the left half from slipping backwards. (Forwards is upwards with this board in this photo.)

The tip and tail clips are literally on the tips and the tail. When secured these prevent the halves from sliding the other way (left half forwards/right half backwards).

The bindings in this photo are mounted on top of the pucks so you can't see them, but there's 2 under each binding, one on each half. The bindings bridge these pucks and create a rigid link.

The hardware mounted in the centre of each half is where the bindings attach when the halves are seperated and used like skis.

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