Randy

I really enjoyed those videos.  Looks like a fantastic place to ride kite buggy.  Nice to see the Stars flying high again.  

When you have a bit of time I would love to see some pictures of how it folds up into the bag, how big it is and that sort of thing.   Be nice to know how long it takes to set up also.  It really looks great! 

yeah-well, not under the tree after all. But half a buggy arrived express just the other day, from China even(!). Also e-mailed with Chris, wheels, pegs and backaxle is on the way soon. It all fit together nicely, just slightly excessive long straps... 😄

BTW -I like the spot you ride at.  If I zoom in, seems like I can see your tracks.

Never got my taxes done sooner.  Then they gave us 2 more months.....

I've been using single handed bar now with my buggy.  Works quite well. 
 
 

I've been using single handed bar now with my buggy.  Works quite well. 
 
 

I have exactly the same machine and have now used it quite a bit for 3 years.  Sewing kites is one of the least demanding things (for the machine) you can.  The fabric is very thin and pretty easy to sew.  The "Heavy Duty" name is probably overstated though - my machine can't make it through the seam when hemming a pair of blue jeans for example.  But if kite making is the main use of the machine you don't need much.  I've only ever used 3 stitches - straight, zig-zag and triple zig-zag.  Probably every machine made now has many more stitches than that.  So you don't have to spend a lot.  A walking foot is probably a necessity, and for NPW's I would get a cording foot.   This is because often you use kite line as a seam reinforcement (see Tom White's plans on kiteplans.org).  This provides a very strong attachment for bridles.  It is very hard to sew a a reinforcement line without one, but quite easy with one.
 

Awesome vid Steve - love the music too!

Tried my homebrew single handed handle today.  If you have enough wind to ride it provides plenty of control.  Fun way to ride.  Easy to make the bar with PVC pipe, a few drill bits and a heat gun. 
 
 

Here's an interesting listing.  Only about $50 more than Pansh themselves would charge.  (They did cut the price from $198 though.)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pansh-Adam-4-5m-Kiteboarding-Trainer-Kite-Closed-Cell-Water-Relaunchable/152901879914?hash=item2399a9886a:g:-WcAAOSwHo5afk6B
 

I used "Prototarp" from Dollar Tree on the first version and surplus 3/4 oz poly from Flymarket on this one.  I don't think the choice of material matters that much, but something that is a little bit stretchy is probably best.  I think if the material was more stretchy the wrinkles would be a lot smaller, though they do give me a guide as to where bridles might need adjustment.  
 
 
 
 
 
The lighter poly does take a lot less wind to fly than the blue Dollar Tree tarp, but I am always reluctant to use expensive material on a design that is unproven such as this.  If it flies then making a second one out of better material easy because I already have the templates and know some of the finer points.
BTW - 3/4 oz is a bit misleading.  It is measured according to a sailmaker's yard which is 27 by 36 so don't expect an actual yard to weigh 3/4 oz.  I've used texlon as my "go to" fabric for single skin and foils I've made and been happy with the results though like the poly it doesn't stretch much. 

I just hold the two panels together (front side to front side on the inside of the two pieces) and sew them, a few CM at a time until the curve is not so pronounced.  Once that's done I sew the rib into place.  The guys that are really good do all 3 pieces at once though.  Normally, I work from the left most panel and go to the right so I don't have a lot of fabric inside the arm of the machine. 
The real work is in making the patterns, cutting out the pieces and sewing the rib hems and reinforcements together.  Ian's blog shows one way to do it.   Once you have all that done, sewing the pieced together is not a big job, if you have some experience sewing (or know someone who does.)
 
 

Hey @Powermad 26 I have made a lot of single skin kites but mostly NPW's or variations on NPW's.  I have used to Single Skin program to design a few kites, but they were quite simple.   The first kite in this video shows one of those kites along with a number of my other single skin kite experiments.  My first try at that.  It flew well enough but was not outstanding. 
 
I have just built a "gkite" also a single skin which I think flies quite well, and I am working on a second version.  I modified the design to remove the "wrap around" leading edge, which doesn't seem to make hurt much.  This link below provides the plans.  This link also provides software that can be used for either paraglider or single skin kite design, though the Single Skin program seems easier to use.
http://www.laboratoridenvol.com/projects/gkite/gkite.en.html
 
As for BigE123, I haven't heard from him in quite a while.  He is a very talented builder though.
 
 
 

I used "Prototarp" from Dollar Tree on the first version and surplus 3/4 oz poly from Flymarket on this one.  I don't think the choice of material matters that much, but something that is a little bit stretchy is probably best.  I think if the material was more stretchy the wrinkles would be a lot smaller, though they do give me a guide as to where bridles might need adjustment.  
 
 
 
 
 
The lighter poly does take a lot less wind to fly than the blue Dollar Tree tarp, but I am always reluctant to use expensive material on a design that is unproven such as this.  If it flies then making a second one out of better material easy because I already have the templates and know some of the finer points.
BTW - 3/4 oz is a bit misleading.  It is measured according to a sailmaker's yard which is 27 by 36 so don't expect an actual yard to weigh 3/4 oz.  I've used texlon as my "go to" fabric for single skin and foils I've made and been happy with the results though like the poly it doesn't stretch much.